First
off, all cars are different. These are some basic
rules that all cars need, but as far as the actual
setup goes, different cars react differently to the
same adjustments. Also, all tracks are different,
Conditions are different, and driving styles are different.
Basics (1)
One thing to
do that all pro racers do today is not only build
the car, but take time with it. We make sure that
everything is moving freely. For example, pop off
the shock and make sure that all of the suspension
arms are moving freely. Also, take off the steering
linkage and make sure the steering is free. Another
good thing to do , is make sure that your drive
train is free. If not, it is fairly easy to clean
it out. A) You could have dirt in the pulleys. B.)
The belt could be too tight. C.) The bearings could
be gritty and cause lots of friction, the list goes
on! Also, another important thing is to make sure
that neither belt is coming in contact with your
electronics or any wires. This can save you money
and frustration.
Preparing (2)
Preparing for
race day is a very important thing. If you are like
me, you don't want to be setting tweak at the track.
The first thing I do is pull out a new or slightly
used set of tires that I KNOW is going to be straight.
Slap them on the car and find a VERY flat
surface. To properly set up your car I would recommend:
- Camber gauge
- Ride height
gauge
- X-Acto
- Spring spacers
- All of the
tools to lengthen/shorten your shocks
OK, now that you
have found a flat surface set the car down as you
would on the track less the body, (weighted). Next,
set your ride height, you do this by adding spring
spacers to your shocks. Run your ride height anywhere
from 4 to 6mm. Keep in mind that different cars may
require a different ride height to work properly.
Also, it. s usually best to set the ride height and
the same level front and rear!. I bring this up because
when you settle the cars suspension on the flat surface,
you should be able to lift up on the front of the
car and there should be some down travel. Same thing
with the rear. If you don't have down travel then
re-check the length of your shocks and ride height
and try again. Also, if you don't have any down travel,
setting the car's tweak (which will be discussed later)
will require a different method. Adjusting
your camber. This should be fairly self-explanatory.
Basically, don' t run positive camber ever,
and only run up to 3 degrees negative camber. It
is always safe to run around 1 degree.
Set the car
down on the table and settle the suspension. Do
this by tapping on the front of the car a few times
and do the same to the rear. Next, get down so the
car's chassis is at eye level. Say that you are
going to be looking at the back of the car. Place
the x-acto in the center of the chassis and lift
up. What happens? Does one wheel leave the ground
before the other? Are they the same? Well, if they
are the same go to the front of the car and do the
same thing. If not , which wheel lifts first, right
or left? Say the right wheel lifts first, you can
do 2 things: lengthen the right shock, or shorten
the left shock. Get the idea? Do this until both
wheels leave the ground at the same time. Then check
the front if you haven't already done so. Do the
same thing to the front now. Then check the rear
again to make sure that any of your adjustments
from the front didn't effect the rear. This can
kind of be a see-saw for a while but it is usually
very easy . Ok, now that the tweak is set, along
with the camber and ride height you are pretty much
done. You might want to run and get the body and
make sure that it doesn't drag on the ground but
otherwise you are done!
At the track
(3)
Personally
I have never been to a race where there are NO racers
that are willing to share information. So ask your
buddies or someone who is pitted near you what the
tire is for the day. Go ahead and try it, do you
like it? No? Yes? Has an awkward feel? I have learned
that tires are probably the most important
thing at a race. If you don. t have the tire that
everyone seems to like lately, don't expect your
car to be off the hook! Another thing that only
does good is PRACTICE! I can't say this enough.
Track time is another thing probably more valuable
then anything! Now that I have that straight, how
does the car work? What setup works? Also, try all
of the tires you have if you have the time. Ok,
I know I said earlier that I don't like doing work
at the track but if your car needs it (which it
might) you are going to have to break down and spend
a little time. If the car is tweaked, re-set the
tweak, if the tires suck, try other tires, get the
idea? Now, as far as the car steering is concerned,
this is a whole other matter. First off, Dual Rate
is probably the one thing that I use most on my
radio. If the car has too much steering, all you
have to do is turn down the dual-rate! If the car
doesn't have enough steering, turn up the DR.
Ideally, you
want to find the right balance. This means that
the car steers into the turn just as you want it
too, and comes out of the turn just as you want
it to. Say the car has a push going into the turn,
and has kind of an over-steer coming out of the
turn. In this situation, put one of your smallest
shock shims in both of the rear shocks. This will
raise the rear ride height and give you more bite
in the rear coming out of the turn, and more bite
in the front going into the turn. If the car does
the opposite (over-steers going into the turn and
under-steers coming out), then put 2 of your smallest
shims in both of the front shocks. Do this until
you find the right balance.
Hopefully this
helps, and keep your eye out for more set-up guides
here at OFNA.
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