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Ravager - Front knucke arms

 
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mdy120



Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 93

PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 3:12 pm    Post subject: Ravager - Front knucke arms Reply with quote

Used Ravager - right front knuckle arm: the threads in the bottom hole where the 4x10mm cap screw goes is stripped. The knuckle arm bushing on the top is missing . Do I need to order new parts or is there a way to fix this?
The left side looks ok but apparently the previous owner had some problems there also since there are different screws - but they are not stripped. A few things but still a very good Ravager.
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Paradoxmaker



Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 3573
Location: Keller, Texas

PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 4:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Ravager - Front knucke arms Reply with quote

mdy120 wrote:
Used Ravager - right front knuckle arm: the threads in the bottom hole where the 4x10mm cap screw goes is stripped. The knuckle arm bushing on the top is missing . Do I need to order new parts or is there a way to fix this?
The left side looks ok but apparently the previous owner had some problems there also since there are different screws - but they are not stripped. A few things but still a very good Ravager.


YOu can get the CNC ravager knuckles or convert it to a Jammin C-hub and knuckle arrangement. The jammin ones are held on with nuts, they don't thread into the knuckles themselves.
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mdy120



Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 93

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 4:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will probably get the ravager knuckel arms just to get it running but am interested in getting the Jammin C-hub and knuckle arrangement -- it looks like the previous owner had problem with the knuckle arms since there are different screws in all the knucle arms. To convert do I just get the Jammin C-hub and knuckle arm -- is that all the parts I need? I can get the Jammin manual from the Ofna site for part numbers.
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Paradoxmaker



Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 3573
Location: Keller, Texas

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 4:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mdy120 wrote:
I will probably get the ravager knuckel arms just to get it running but am interested in getting the Jammin C-hub and knuckle arrangement -- it looks like the previous owner had problem with the knuckle arms since there are different screws in all the knucle arms. To convert do I just get the Jammin C-hub and knuckle arm -- is that all the parts I need? I can get the Jammin manual from the Ofna site for part numbers.


Here you go

http://ofna.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=37310&highlight=jammin#37310
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mdy120



Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 93

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 4:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey thanks - you did all the search work already. I really don't understand why they put threaded parts like that (Ravager) on a buggy that takes so much stress. I think I will go ahead and convert to the Jammin set up.
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rabidsquirrel



Joined: 28 Dec 2005
Posts: 1098
Location: Tampa, FL (New Tampa)

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 5:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Jammin setup is good, but when I was running a Ravager, my upgraded CNC knuckles never gave me any problems.

So either way you go, should be less troublesome than what you have on it now.

Good luck with her!

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mdy120



Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 93

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for all the info - and I agree that either way is better. But I still don't understand why rc companies (not just Ofna) put threaded parts like that on the steering and suspension. It seems from a manufacturing view it would be just as easy to design them with a nut to secure the screw. Just an opinion.
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Paradoxmaker



Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 3573
Location: Keller, Texas

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mdy120 wrote:
Thank you for all the info - and I agree that either way is better. But I still don't understand why rc companies (not just Ofna) put threaded parts like that on the steering and suspension. It seems from a manufacturing view it would be just as easy to design them with a nut to secure the screw. Just an opinion.


Well whoever designed em i'm sure thought it was a good idea at the time.
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mdy120



Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 93

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are right. I'm sure I would never have given it a second thought if I didn't have to fix it. I guess it's easy to find something to complain about -- so I'll brag on the Ofna buggies a bit. They are very well made -even the entry level - and not hard to learn to work on even for a beginner. I'm sure the fine tuning will take some more expertise -- but I'm having fun with my Ultra Comp 2 and Ravager.
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Paradoxmaker



Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 3573
Location: Keller, Texas

PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mdy120 wrote:
You are right. I'm sure I would never have given it a second thought if I didn't have to fix it. I guess it's easy to find something to complain about -- so I'll brag on the Ofna buggies a bit. They are very well made -even the entry level - and not hard to learn to work on even for a beginner. I'm sure the fine tuning will take some more expertise -- but I'm having fun with my Ultra Comp 2 and Ravager.


Well since you have an LX comp also, why don't you take a look at my thread about getting rid of that annoying screw lidded LX comp radio box..

http://www.ofna.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4724&highlight=jammin+box
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mdy120



Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 93

PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 6:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will check that out. I don't have to take my batteries out often -- I put a Peak racing 1600 Hump pack in and exchanged the switch to :
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL303&P=ML
so i can charge my battery without taking it out of the box. I did that on the Ravager also. It works very well.
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