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topshotta2114
Joined: 29 Oct 2007
Posts: 6
Location: bermuda
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 Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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| thanks a million have a race coming up this weekend will give it a try . one problem that i might have is i doe not have the blue springs . What do you think about the mugen greys ? |
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Cheetah
Joined: 06 Dec 2005
Posts: 344
Location: AL
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| Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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| Russ, what does going to camber link inside holes on the front hubs do? For the rear? Thanks............ |
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Russjones42
Joined: 14 Nov 2005
Posts: 620
Location: camp verde az.
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| Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 10:14 pm Post subject: |
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Mugen Grey's will be fine, just remember that a lot of that setup was in the droop screws.
Cheetah coming inside on the hub in the front shortens the camber link and increases the camber gain which increase side traction, with a reduction to forward traction, but side traction equals steering.
In the rear it has the same effect but a shorter link will also make the rear feel like it reacts quicker. |
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topshotta2114
Joined: 29 Oct 2007
Posts: 6
Location: bermuda
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| Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 2:55 am Post subject: |
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thanks russ,
droop screws were did you start with them . my droop screws are just in the holes not really doing anything . weres a good starting point ??? |
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Cheetah
Joined: 06 Dec 2005
Posts: 344
Location: AL
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| Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 4:17 am Post subject: |
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| Got it. Thanks for the quick reply Russ............. |
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Russjones42
Joined: 14 Nov 2005
Posts: 620
Location: camp verde az.
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| Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 8:38 am Post subject: |
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| A good starting point for the droop screws is to start at the front end and let the arm hang down to full extension, then screw in the screw till it starts to lift the front arm, from this point screw in the droop screws about another 1/2 a turn. then set the rear end by setting the car on a flatsurface and lifting it up until all the shocks are at full extension, you will want to look at the chassis and see the slope, you want the rear end to only raise above the front by about 3-5mm. So you should see a fairly gradual slope up to the rear by looking at the chassis. |
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Demento
Joined: 23 Nov 2006
Posts: 213
Location: Victoria, Australia
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| Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 9:31 pm Post subject: |
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| Russjones42 wrote: |
I would go to 2k rear diff oil and 2* degress antisquat. You might be able to get the rear end to stick with camber links, what camber link are you running at the tower.
You may also want to try going to the outside hole on the arm with the shock. |
Managed to get out today for an hour & 1/2 drive with the track all to myself. Those little setting worked a treat Russ, thanks heaps. After all those laps I probably only barrel rolled her 6 times and that was probably when I tried the knuckles2.0.
All I am after now mate is a little more power off steering, I am running max caster/kickup so should I lighten the oil? Ackerman? OH, my camber link settings are still stock factory setting.
Cheers! |
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Russjones42
Joined: 14 Nov 2005
Posts: 620
Location: camp verde az.
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 4:36 pm Post subject: |
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Ackerman will help especially if the track is tight, try the rear ackerman hole. Another thing would be to go to the lower camber hole in the front tower or the inner camber hole on the front hub, and lastly you could lay the front shocks down 1 hole in the tower. This are all things you should try sometime or the other just for fun.
I think diffs may be your best bet. You said the track is loose and the diff setup you are running sounds more like something you would run with medium to high traction, Since your happy with The Balance I would try something like 5f,4c,2r. Not only will that help with off power steering but it will be a little more forgiving in the center diff would should allow you to push the car harder on the loose surface. Hope this helps. |
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Felipe
Joined: 05 Apr 2006
Posts: 470
Location: Winter Haven FL
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 5:17 pm Post subject: |
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You hit it Russ on the money that's my diff set up and i love it i can be hard with it with out lossing the car in the turns even wear with the front and rear tires.   |
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Demento
Joined: 23 Nov 2006
Posts: 213
Location: Victoria, Australia
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 5:55 pm Post subject: |
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| Thanks once again Russ, your a legend & your help is greatly appreciated! |
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underway
Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 57
Location: Portsmouth, VA
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| Posted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 11:22 am Post subject: |
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| Can someone tell me if when you change the upper arm angle you have to do it on both the tower and the upper piece that mounts on top of the ackerman post? Hope I didnt confuse anyone...because I'm already confused.... |
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Russjones42
Joined: 14 Nov 2005
Posts: 620
Location: camp verde az.
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| Posted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 1:14 pm Post subject: |
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| Yes you will have to make the rear upper arm mount match the front. |
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Russjones42
Joined: 14 Nov 2005
Posts: 620
Location: camp verde az.
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| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 11:34 am Post subject: |
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| Ok so I pulled my spider diff apart and realized that is was grease filled and not silicone filled, so I know my car was diffing bad, but I didn't have time to check it at track. After I refilled the spider diff it felt really smooth, gonna see how it does with actual oil in it lol. |
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topshotta2114
Joined: 29 Oct 2007
Posts: 6
Location: bermuda
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| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 6:27 pm Post subject: |
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hey russ ,
I tried those mugen Grey springs and didn't like that feel. Felt sluggish . Have you ever tried kyosho dark blue ? I need something for my jammnin big bore shocks . not the new ones looking for some ideas .
thanks |
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outlaw
Joined: 22 Oct 2007
Posts: 23
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| Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 9:06 pm Post subject: |
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| hi russ, what oils did you put into your spiders? thanks |
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