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Roll Cage?????

 
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Jminor



Joined: 20 Sep 2006
Posts: 36
Location: Bolivia, NC

PostPosted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 1:53 pm    Post subject: Roll Cage????? Reply with quote

So so far all I have found for the Dom is a Roll bar, no cage yet. A few places have said they have cages for the Dom in the works but nothing until late 07. I find that kinda crappy especially since the truck has been discontinued. So I have decided to make my own. If anyone has tried this before let me know. I wanna do a full cage so if I decide to run with the body off it'll look like a monster truck after losing the body. Also any thoughts on what to use for materials? I have heard piano wire, or brass tubing, even brake line, I don't have a welder but with brass and piano wire I know I can just solder it. As usual any help is greatly appreciated. I am also thinking of building one for my Tamiya hummer just for the fun of it.
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backmarkermike



Joined: 09 Nov 2005
Posts: 25
Location: idaho

PostPosted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

your best bet would probably be steel brake line. you can weld it with a gas setup. I would stay away from brass as it would bend too easy.
google rc rock crawlers..you will find a lot of tips on welding and basic construction
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Jminor



Joined: 20 Sep 2006
Posts: 36
Location: Bolivia, NC

PostPosted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, if all goes well I might just build a full cage for the Dom, one for the hummer, and maybe even a full tube chassis for a crawler. I know they make kits but it's always more fun to make your own, just gotta decide if I wanna go with clod gearboxes or come up with something different... Maybe a nitro crawler????????
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MotionMachine999



Joined: 20 Oct 2005
Posts: 1722
Location: Land of Oz

PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 3:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dominator Full Roll Cage by New Era.
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Jminor



Joined: 20 Sep 2006
Posts: 36
Location: Bolivia, NC

PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 5:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok I forgot about New Era, I am kind of against purchasing anything from them due to a past experience that soured my feelings for that company. I do like the cage but I am thinking of something that is more "real Truggy like" that looks like a pickup truck and I don't know if thats the look I want. Thanks though I appreciate the post.
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hybridom



Joined: 08 Feb 2006
Posts: 850
Location: st. thomas, ontario, canada

PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

do you want a full cage or just a roll bar????
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Jminor



Joined: 20 Sep 2006
Posts: 36
Location: Bolivia, NC

PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Full Cage all the way, I mean like rock crawler style bombproof cage removable. The stock chassis plate would stay in place and the tube frame would be built off of it. like the New Era one but better, no straight tubes forming a bed on the back angled tubes, I'll draw a picture of what I mean and post it tomorrow. I wanna make my Dom the ultimate basher, not worried about racing I just like to play and take huge jumps.
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MotionMachine999



Joined: 20 Oct 2005
Posts: 1722
Location: Land of Oz

PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once upon a time, there was an idiot offering Nascar style 8 point FULL CHASSIS Roll cages for the Ultra's and MP/Doms, unfortunitely the $175.00 price tag was to much of a premium (apparently) for a lifetime of protection.
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Jminor



Joined: 20 Sep 2006
Posts: 36
Location: Bolivia, NC

PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah something like that. But I wanna put diagonal bars from the top bar in the back of the cab to the rear bar, I know I will have to figure out something body wise but I think it'll look cool, like I said I'm not opposed to building one especially since I am now a manager at my local autozone so parts like steel brakeline or tubing come cheap to me now. That and I need an excuse to get away from the house for a while and hide in the "dungeon" that is my basement. Do you think slotting the bed of the body to fit the tubes through would be a bad idea? Most of the bed will remain just along the sides would be removed and only enough to fit the cage through.
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hybridom



Joined: 08 Feb 2006
Posts: 850
Location: st. thomas, ontario, canada

PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the body would flap around like grandma's underarms when she is waving goodbye
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Jminor



Joined: 20 Sep 2006
Posts: 36
Location: Bolivia, NC

PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not big holes in the shell just like 3/8" wide and maybe an inch and a half long. Nice comparo though I think I threw up in my mouth a little... And now Off to Jamaica, well off to bed first then Jamaica in the morning.
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MotionMachine999



Joined: 20 Oct 2005
Posts: 1722
Location: Land of Oz

PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually Hybridom, if its done correctly, it wouldn't flap around at all.

Jminor, if you build your cage simular to that one, so that the rear main cab hoop and the bed perimeter hoop tucks snugly up into the body (as that 8 pt cage is), then add those "additional" down tubes you want so there exiting out the back of the cab straight (running paralel with the chassis centerline!) towards the rear bed's main hoop (the tube that tucks up into the upper bed rail). If you do it like that, other than 4 small holes where the tube passes thru the body, you wont need to cut anything else out other than body mount and glow plug hole/s.
I'd suggest you use an unpainted body while constructing the cage and fit it onto the finished chassis BEFORE painting it, makes it much easier.
To install the body without cutting out ANY of the tanneu cover, determine where the rear down tubes enter and exit the body. Take your time here and double check BEFORE proceeding. Drill 4 slightly oversized holes (slightly larger than the tube dia) ONLY where the down tubes will pass thru the body, then simply slice the body straight down from each cab hole to the top of the bed rail and continue each slice straight back (again, paralel to the chassis centerline) towards the rear bed hole, as to have 2 seperate paralel slices.
Then you only need to spread the body slightly to allow the tubes to pass thru as the body is then lowered into position. If your cage is built square and true, when the body is in place, the body will fit back together and the body slices will virtually disappear.
I only use ONE front and ONE rear BUGGY body mount to secure my PU bodies in place, my body doesnt move and/or flap around at all because the cage tucks so tightly in the body, it (the cage) hold the body in place and the body mounts simply prevent the body from blowing off.

I made those cages using the following self imposed guidelines.
#1- Protect the expensive stuff. Engine, Radio, Servo's, Driveline, Shock towers, etc.
#2- Add strength and regidity to the chassis.
#3- Prevent most of the typical body damage that results from crashing and/or landing directly on the lid repeatedly.
#4. Maintain an "authentic" look without affecting handling (LCG).
#5. Keep Wt to a minimum!!!!
#6. Do all that while not interferring with the normal operation (fueling, starting, tuning), routine maint and/or repairs.

I typically replace a body only after its severely scratched up, rarely because its all busted up (I then use those bodies to bash with) and the only crash related damages I've had since installing the cage has been primarily to the "exposed" suspension pieces.
For more air flow with the body on, I put a 1.25" round hole in the wind shield, then cut the side (door) windows so they appear to be rolled down about half way.

I have pics of the Dominator's Low Pro 8 PT Roll Cage, only I cant remember where I stuck them. I'll look for them tonight.

Good Luck with it.
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MotionMachine999



Joined: 20 Oct 2005
Posts: 1722
Location: Land of Oz

PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 5:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote





With some fore thought, you can incorporate many things into the cage. Observe how the front shocks (tall) mount to the cage.
Now is it strong? I'll let the following pics speak for themselves.


Thats 225 pounds standing ATOP that cage, yet the cage with the 8 fasteners included, weigh'd just 14 ounces.
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MotionMachine999



Joined: 20 Oct 2005
Posts: 1722
Location: Land of Oz

PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a 4 point Roll Bar for the MP/Dom. Although not as effective as the Full Chassis Roll Cage, it does offers some protection to the engine, radio equipment, driveline, and body.



It can support 150 pounds (conservatively) yet weighs @ 40 grams with the fasteners.
I have 2 of these MP/Dom 4 PT Roll Barz left. Contact me at ronanddeb@hometelco.net if your interested in purchasing one for $40.
IMO, 4130 Chrome Moly Tubing (.25"X.035") is the BEST material to use when constructing an RC roll cage, unfortunitely its VERY expensive and as of late, extremely hard to find.
Good Luck
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Jminor



Joined: 20 Sep 2006
Posts: 36
Location: Bolivia, NC

PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 5:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I am back from Jamaica and ready to get down to some cage business. Motion I like the look of the blue cage, and the slits in the body were exactly what I was thinking. I think the down tubes for the bed of the truck just look cool and they will add enough protection in a roll over that I might be able to have some serious fun with it. Thanks for the info and the pics, I'll post again soon when I start construction.
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