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ofna force .28 sg questions

 
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redlined_b16a



Joined: 29 Jun 2008
Posts: 91

PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 5:57 pm    Post subject: ofna force .28 sg questions Reply with quote

I have a old force that came with my Jamin X1CR rtr years ago,its seen about 13 gallons of fuel(I stopped keeping track after 10) and im very impressed with the engine.Its a true powerhouse for a basher,To be honest its still way too much engine for my Hyper7 pbs

So I bought another one today new and Its one tight mo-fo without a plug its really tight....awesome
but my question is does Break in Fuel really help? Ive been into nitro since the late 80's and have never used break in fuel,Ive always used the fuel I plan to stick with(I used to use red alert for the longest time)then switched to odonnel now im with Byron 20% gen 2 fuel.
whats the diffrence between regular fuel and break in fuel,
is there an additive I can add to my regular fuel?

also im not too sure on the break in instruction that come with the engine,It states to run the car in on rich on the first tank and after to slowly start leaning it in 1/8 turn until,its say repeat this thru a few tanks(this is not word for word) but the later in the instructions it states to run it rich with break in fuel for 1 gallon worth......then why am I leaning it so much if I still need to be rich for a gallon.....However im plan to run a gallon rich and easy along with the heat cycle process

i'll review my instructions again tommorow

also it looks as though the new engine only has one head shim,my old one has three shims....how many should it have from the factory,My old one is a beast with three shims,and I know the shims are for advancing and retarding the timming

humm...let me go view ofnas break in instructions
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VWVR6_T



Joined: 23 Aug 2009
Posts: 383
Location: Western, PA

PostPosted: Sat Oct 09, 2010 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't bother to put anything to your fuel just stick to the fuel that you will use, todays fuel are different than the fuels of 10+ years back. The new synthetic oils mix with the caster keep braking thrue the heat. That is why you can see todays fuel with just 9% of oil vs back in the days 12 - 15% of oil. Either byrons or odonnel will work just fine. The main thing here is how you set up the needles and the iddle air gap. The needles should be set from factory. Make sure your starter box and igniter are fully charge and keep some extra glow plugs. Get a heat gun or a air dryer, before you start the engine make sure is hot, what I do is take the glowplug out and blow hot air in it make sure the piston is in his lower position that way the heat can travel accross the engine, blow hot air for a cuples of minuts till you feel is hot. put the glow plug back and start, will make things easier and better for the engine. If you pick heat cycle brake in proces, make sure to keep the temps not lower than 200( that is the point of expansion of the sleeve). There is a few systems to brake it in this motors just Read the instruccions let see exactly what they said and go with that.
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