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Picco .26 Red Dot issues

 
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Chemdawg



Joined: 19 Sep 2010
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:56 pm    Post subject: Picco .26 Red Dot issues Reply with quote

Hello everyone. I'm new to both this forum, and to the Ofna product. I purchased my red dot about a month ago. But have NOT been able to successfully get this engine to run. On day one, I got it all installed and had major idle issues. Pulling it back out and checking it for leaks, I found it had a bad front seal. I replaced the seal with a Boca Mx ceramic bearing. Reassembled it, and started the break in procedure.

One thing I noticed during the breakin was that it was way too rich. So rich that I was dumping raw fuel out the exhaust, in way more than normal fashion. I took my truck to my Local hobby shop, and talked to the nitro guru. He tweaked it to the point where I was able to run without blowing out so much fuel. However, once I started tuning for performance, I just couldn't seem to get this to run good at all. So on a few occasions I decided to reset the needles to factory settings, to start over. Now I'm a bit worried, because I read that your supposed to open the slide before closing the LSN completely. I did not do that. Does this mean that I destroyed my carb body? I really hope I didn't...

Thanks in advance for this info.
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VWVR6_T



Joined: 23 Aug 2009
Posts: 384
Location: Western, PA

PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let start with, DId you brake it in the motor?
If you didn't? you have to, otherwise that motor will be junk before his first gallon. Dump raw fuel it is normal in the very first fuel tanks, why? it will lubricate and release any thing inside the engine from factory.

Get the needles at flush with the housing, both of them.

Set the idle gap to about 1.5mm no need to be exactly.

Get a heat gun if don't have one a air driyer will work, blow some heat in the engine till get very hoy before start the engine, will make things easier.

Start the engine let it adle for the first tank.

Adjust the LSN till you get a steady idle, once you have a steady idle let run for an other tank.

3 and 4 tank - Close the idle gap or air gap to about 1.0mm, you may have to adjust the LSN to get a steady idle( adjust just if needed) Drive around duing figure 8, this way will let the engine get in temp, keep it running pressing the trhotle just to keep it running, nothing fast at all.

5 and 6 tank close the LSN 2hrs. if the idle is high close the air gap till you have a steady idle. drive in figures 8.

7 and 8 tank - Adjust the idle gap to about .5mm( it is like the thick of a credit card) At this point you do not need to adjust the air gap for nothing you will adjust the LSN and HSN as needed. You may have to adjust the LSN to get a steady idle. At this point go in straigh line and give him a 50% throtle for a a second or two.

9 and 10 tanks Now we move to the HSN, close the HSN an hr, pay attention to the idle if the idle raise open the LSN 1 hr or till the idle is steady. Drive the car with a sections of 2 second between half to 3/4 of throtle.

At this point you should be very close to a good tune and very good brake in. When I said look for a nice steady idle make sure the tyres are not or very slow motion. Tank 11-13 drive the car with a sections of 2 to 3 seconds between 1/2, 3/4 and full throtle( one time do 1/2 let it come down next time do 3/4 let it come dowm and so on).
This engine are very thight when new, will take like 1/2 gallon to 3/4 gallon just to be safe and race it with a good tune. Alway make sure you have a stream of smoke, if you don't. means the engine must be running HOT.

Take a look at this link http://www.ofna.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=23, it have a lot of information about almost anything in this hobby. If you have any more question just drop a line, some one will help you. Hope this help and burn nitro.
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Chemdawg



Joined: 19 Sep 2010
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 5:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This really wasn't my issue. I didn't break it in exactly in this manner. I have ran at least 10 tanks of fuel through the motor. I have never seen a breakin like this before. 10 plus years in nitro, with many types of engines, and I never saw this.

My issue comes down to the LSN. I was reading that you need to open the carb up fully before closing the LSN to start over with needle adjustments. I closed up the LSN a few times but did NOT open the carb before doing so. I wanted to know if I messed up the carb now becasue of this?

Thanks for the response. I'm making note of this.
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VWVR6_T



Joined: 23 Aug 2009
Posts: 384
Location: Western, PA

PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are different types of brake in prosedures, this one in specific work for me and many that race almost every weekend. In the way that you ask didn't get me the impression that you have 10+ years in this hobby. Hope this help to any with no experience. GL
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Chemdawg



Joined: 19 Sep 2010
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My thing about this procedure is with which direction your tuning. According to this: Tuning Guide, your supposed to tune the High end first.

I believe any issues I have right now may be from not being completely broken in. So I am going to take your procedure and keep that for reference. Having experience in nitro doesn't mean you still cannot learn. This motor is a whole different animal than any other Nitro motor I have broken in.

I had originally inquired about the carb body itself. I wanted to know if I damaged my carb body when I turned in the LSN without opening the carb fully.

Thanks for the info...
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VWVR6_T



Joined: 23 Aug 2009
Posts: 384
Location: Western, PA

PostPosted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you close the high (HSN) end first you are leaning the bottom too, why? because the fuel is coming from the hsn then go true the LSN. That is why I set up the LSN first with the slide air gap (the adjustment once you finish with the LSN) will be minimal the adjustment in both sides. And why you adjust the air gap from @ 2mm progresive down to a @ .5-.7mm?, in the beginin of a new engine you just want to put a lot of fuel in the very first tank to 1. lubricate 2.Clean any thing left inside if any, from factory. The main thing in this engines is get them in temp. in a safely manner without hurting the piston/sleeve to get better compression. In this engines at least in the very first gallon is good to heat it up pretty good before start the engine, that way the sleeve will expand and that will give you a longer engine life. Hope this make it clear why I do it that way. Once you finish the way I do it, you will have a brake it in motor and tune at the same time, make sence?

PS: Adjusting the LSN will not affect the HSN but if you adjust the HSN will affect the LSN.
Now lets burn some nitro


Last edited by VWVR6_T on Thu Sep 23, 2010 9:43 am; edited 1 time in total
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Chemdawg



Joined: 19 Sep 2010
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Wed Sep 22, 2010 2:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's really good info to know. I'm going to try this and see how it works. Thanks!!
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DJ



Joined: 22 Jun 2006
Posts: 979

PostPosted: Wed Sep 22, 2010 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWVR6_T breaks in engine the same way I do. You also need to change the pipe to the THS pipe the stock pipe does not work and do not use Traxxas fuel it's very inconssitant to the Picco engine.
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