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getting new GTP 2
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davejr



Joined: 20 Jul 2010
Posts: 17

PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 1:17 pm    Post subject: getting new GTP 2 Reply with quote

Ok, so hopefully I should be ordering a GTP 2 next week. And I have a slew of questions.

Has anyone done business with RCSpeedZone? They have it for the cheapest and I was wondering if they are an ok company to order from?

What NEEDS to be done to this other than obviously breaking in the engine?

What is the best break in procedure?

What is a good fuel brand to use with the Force 28? One place I checked had only Traxxas 20% blue stuff and Byrons 25% orange stuff.

Do I need the air filter oil and after run oil?

I've read many mixed reviews about the Viper smart temp/fail safe. It does look neat with all the features though.

Any other pointers would be appreciated. I'm noob to the 1/8 scale nitro scene.
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VWVR6_T



Joined: 23 Aug 2009
Posts: 384
Location: Western, PA

PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 5:06 pm    Post subject: Re: getting new GTP 2 Reply with quote

davejr wrote:
Ok, so hopefully I should be ordering a GTP 2 next week. And I have a slew of questions.

1. Has anyone done business with RCSpeedZone? They have it for the cheapest and I was wondering if they are an ok company to order from?

2. What NEEDS to be done to this other than obviously breaking in the engine?

3. What is the best break in procedure?

4. What is a good fuel brand to use with the Force 28? One place I checked had only Traxxas 20% blue stuff and Byrons 25% orange stuff.

5. Do I need the air filter oil and after run oil?

6. I've read many mixed reviews about the Viper smart temp/fail safe. It does look neat with all the features though.

Any other pointers would be appreciated. I'm noob to the 1/8 scale nitro scene.


Lets start with a welcome to the hobby and this site, great pick 1/8 scale there is a lot of fun.
1. They are a good site to order but you always can try with nitrohouse, give them a call let see if they can match the price.

2. Make sure that you go over the whole kit cheking for loose bolts and making sure that you have everything that should come in the kit.

3. There is a few brake in procedure around, you can use this method http://ofna.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3 will work just fine, if you need any more help just come back and drop a line.

4. Byron's fuel it is great but if you got the chance to get Werks fuel are great also and Odonnel are very good. Always use nitro 20% and above.

5. Yes you need both of them also a few extra glow plugs . Temps. start to come down, you can use Hot plugs. A few extra filter, just swap it and keep runing no down time.

6. I never use those fail/safe, just make sure you have a fully charge batt. and recharge every 45min. or so.

OK noob, check this page http://ofna.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=23 have a lot of information that will use in the near future, get a snack/drink and seat back and read. This is your home work, report back and tell us whats up, lol. Hope this help. Good Luck and Burn nitro
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davejr



Joined: 20 Jul 2010
Posts: 17

PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I went around to a couple local hobby shops to price fuel. I was told that I should start out with 20% and move up to 30%. The vast majority of the fuel I see is blue Traxxas 20%. Is this any good? Another place does have some Byron 25%.
Speaking of fuel, what about that special 'break in' fuel?

Also, I know this rtr comes with a radio, fuel bottle, and glow plug heater. What else should be included? Any tools? Or servo horn adaptors? I have a nice Futaba radio that I plan on using.
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David S.



Joined: 04 Apr 2008
Posts: 396

PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 6:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine is not shimmed for 30%
I would recomend to use The Byron fuel 25%
I would not recomend to use the traxxas fuel or any type of rtr fuel.

Hope this helps
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VWVR6_T



Joined: 23 Aug 2009
Posts: 384
Location: Western, PA

PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dont use that brake in fuel, dont waste your money. Just make sure set up the air gap @ 2mm or so, that way you have a lot of fuel and oil going in the engine in the very first tank then start to close the gap as you go with the brake it in method that you choose. Get the byrons 25% you'll be just fine from brake it in to race, I brake it my engine with 30% same that I use for race i have 4gl and counting ;-). I don't know if they come with tools. You may get servo horn adaptors but I doud it. Hope this help.
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davejr



Joined: 20 Jul 2010
Posts: 17

PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yay! It arrived Thurs!
My initial observations are...I really kind wish they cut out the body, it's pretty thick. The steering linkage rubs against the anti-sway bar ends.
Does the rtr have the required 'lock-tite' on everything indicated in the manual?
Is the pinion/spur gap set correctly? The fuel tubing seemed like it was routed differently than the manual.
Also, the kit did have all the stuff,radio,glow ignitor etc, however the only tools it had are an assortment of allen keys. No wrenches?
In order to put in the glow plug, do I need to remove the cooling head?
And I don't quite understand how the ride height adjusters work.
Sorry for all the questions. This does look like an awesome car
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VWVR6_T



Joined: 23 Aug 2009
Posts: 384
Location: Western, PA

PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 6:38 pm    Post subject: Re: getting new GTP 2 Reply with quote

VWVR6_T wrote:
davejr wrote:
Ok, so hopefully I should be ordering a GTP 2 next week. And I have a slew of questions.

1. Has anyone done business with RCSpeedZone? They have it for the cheapest and I was wondering if they are an ok company to order from?

2. What NEEDS to be done to this other than obviously breaking in the engine?

3. What is the best break in procedure?

4. What is a good fuel brand to use with the Force 28? One place I checked had only Traxxas 20% blue stuff and Byrons 25% orange stuff.

5. Do I need the air filter oil and after run oil?

6. I've read many mixed reviews about the Viper smart temp/fail safe. It does look neat with all the features though.

Any other pointers would be appreciated. I'm noob to the 1/8 scale nitro scene.


Lets start with a welcome to the hobby and this site, great pick 1/8 scale there is a lot of fun.
1. They are a good site to order but you always can try with nitrohouse, give them a call let see if they can match the price.

2. Make sure that you go over the whole kit cheking for loose bolts and making sure that you have everything that should come in the kit and proper working order.
3. There is a few brake in procedure around, you can use this method http://ofna.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3 will work just fine, if you need any more help just come back and drop a line.

4. Byron's fuel it is great but if you got the chance to get Werks fuel are great also and Odonnel are very good. Always use nitro 20% and above.

5. Yes you need both of them also a few extra glow plugs . Temps. start to come down, you can use Hot plugs. A few extra filter, just swap it and keep runing no down time.

6. I never use those fail/safe, just make sure you have a fully charge batt. and recharge every 45min. or so.

OK noob, check this page http://ofna.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=23 have a lot of information that will use in the near future, get a snack/drink and seat back and read. This is your home work, report back and tell us whats up, lol. Hope this help. Good Luck and Burn nitro
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VWVR6_T



Joined: 23 Aug 2009
Posts: 384
Location: Western, PA

PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

davejr wrote:
Yay! It arrived Thurs!
My initial observations are...I really kind wish they cut out the body, it's pretty thick. The steering linkage rubs against the anti-sway bar ends.
Does the rtr have the required 'lock-tite' on everything indicated in the manual?
Is the pinion/spur gap set correctly? The fuel tubing seemed like it was routed differently than the manual. It should't be a problem but doble chek with the manual
Also, the kit did have all the stuff,radio,glow ignitor etc, however the only tools it had are an assortment of allen keys. No wrenches? NOPE
In order to put in the glow plug, do I need to remove the cooling head? NOPE, you need one of this one http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=29_54&products_id=8971 to remove and instal the glowplug
And I don't quite understand how the ride height adjusters work. What you do is raise or lower the chassis from the ground, doing this the suspention will perform in different ways. You should keep the lower arms at the same level with chassis as starting point(it may be already like that.
Sorry for all the questions. Ask everything that you want, is the only way to understand and enjoy this hobby
This does look like an awesome car


Read the bold/italic also, are you going to race it or bash?
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davejr



Joined: 20 Jul 2010
Posts: 17

PostPosted: Wed Sep 22, 2010 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably just the street out front and parking lots. 'Bashing' sounds a bit harsh.
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davejr



Joined: 20 Jul 2010
Posts: 17

PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More 'bleeding fingers'. This thing is really hard to start. Had it going a couple of days ago(after spending hours to get it started). Ran about a quart through it doing the break in process. Came back to it today and it just won't fire. I don't think the supplied glow ignitor is getting the plug hot enough. I took the plug to lhs, he tested it in his rechargeable ignitor and it glowed nice and bright. The 'D' batteries I've tried are putting out 1.5 volts. I wish it came with a torque starter in substitute for the super cheapo Radio Shack radio.
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VWVR6_T



Joined: 23 Aug 2009
Posts: 384
Location: Western, PA

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 4:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a heat gun or a air dryier and heat the engine as much as you can, make sure the starter is fully charge, loos the glow plug a little once the engine start tight the glow plug back. This engine are very tight when new and it will take more than 1/2 gallon to get them loose.
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davejr



Joined: 20 Jul 2010
Posts: 17

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually just got a pack of new D batteries. Started up fairly easy. I'm pretty much done with break in with 5 - 6 tanks of heat cycling.
However, the brakes seem really poor. I just learned the hard way that the shock uprights are just pot metal. Pot metal?! A bit disappointed about that. Trying to stop when it hit the tire of my truck and broke the front shock tower. Probably my fault any ways as I didn't have the big foam block on the bumper yet.
Is it possible to use two brake rotors and callipers on the two speed? I've noticed that the buggies have one cam lever on top, and the other is under and use two pull rods from servo. Is it possible to have both levers on top using the one pull rod? Its braking power seems almost non-existent.
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VWVR6_T



Joined: 23 Aug 2009
Posts: 384
Location: Western, PA

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=31_109_181&products_id=11353
http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=30_63_92&products_id=11352
U can try plate,disc,plate,disc,plate.
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davejr



Joined: 20 Jul 2010
Posts: 17

PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the plate or 'calliper' in the middle would have a pad on both sides? What exactly is the difference between the the stock blue pads that came with it and the upgraded ones? I've seen pictures where they have what looks like a small piece of tubing on the rod linkage. Does this help?

On a side note, the 'scoring' method worked really well for cutting out the body. I only have a tiny bit of sanding to do. Is the hole in the windshield necessary? I guess it is for proper air flow. And after eyeballing it, it looks like the 'dimples' for the rear post mounts look a little off.
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VWVR6_T



Joined: 23 Aug 2009
Posts: 384
Location: Western, PA

PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hole in the windshield is necesary to let the air flow and cool down the engine, you need to do a hole in the back also to release the hot air.
If you look at the manual it will tell you the proper way that the linkage should be, the piece of fuel tubing is to absorbe the TQ of the servo and don't damage the servo. You may gain some stoping power. Like I said in above post, go over the whole car with the manual and doble check everything. Doing so you will get more familiar with the car.


Last edited by VWVR6_T on Sat Oct 02, 2010 5:41 pm; edited 1 time in total
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