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My upgrade of my Ultra LX1

 
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poppalx1



Joined: 15 Apr 2010
Posts: 12
Location: Indianapolis, IN

PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 2:36 pm    Post subject: My upgrade of my Ultra LX1 Reply with quote

Ok so here goes I have had my Ultra LX1 for 5 years or so and it has been stock the whole time. So i have decided to start upgrading it to make it race worthy (hopefully).
There it is all stock except for the Body, tires and rims, Futaba F.A.S.T. 3PM radio, 5 cell hump pack and JR Racing Z590M steering servo. This is the first time for this vehicle to have any kind of major maintenance. I have just finished pulling the front diff and cleaning it all up and putting in 7000 wgt diff oil. This truck has seen very little run time because I had trouble getting the breaks adjusted to where it would be even. It has a force 28 in it that has less than 1/2 gallon on it. I will post more picks soon of the whole truck with body off. This will take a while as I have 4 kids and they come before my trucks I have 11 in total RC's. Thanks for looking.
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poppalx1



Joined: 15 Apr 2010
Posts: 12
Location: Indianapolis, IN

PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are the picks without the body. The motor saver air filter will be comming off and the suspension will be brought down to lowry the center of gravity.





Any and all suggestions are welcome at this point. Thanks.
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thunderbolt427



Joined: 15 Aug 2009
Posts: 119
Location: Alabama

PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like a nice start . The Z-590 servo will work but, in the future you may want to upgrade alittle further from that. Hi-tec Has a nice affordable servo with 133 oz .in. of tourqe (HS-MG645 $35.00)using the 5 -cell pack you have. The futaba s3305 is ok but the hi tec has more torque. You should have 90 something now. You really want around 100 or more. Just a recommendation. Lowering the suspension may harm you more than help you. You want the travel to absorb the bumps with. It will help it corner but you may bottom out when you come off any jumps (thats not good).
Get a set of jammin servo tray mounts and cut/grind the battery box down where the plate mounts to on the box. You want to lower what you can on the chassis. I was fortunate enough to have a set of kings heads mounts but you realy dont have to have those ; stock jammin mounts will work just fine. Start with the lowering of the servos and tray. Remember to take off some material then check it you can take it away but not put it back . you dont want the servos to actually touch the chassis. Just go as low as you need to to get the servo tray straight using the jammin mounts..Dont cut the jammin mounts just on the battery box where the servo tray mounts to it. One more thing if i may. Your brakes should be adjusted where you have more rear than front.you want the rear to be just on the verge of locking up in the rear and very little up front. What will happen is if you have to much up front when you hit the brake and try to turn it wont turn it will push really bad. Keep us posted on your progress .
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poppalx1



Joined: 15 Apr 2010
Posts: 12
Location: Indianapolis, IN

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 3:12 am    Post subject: Update Reply with quote

OK so I have the diffs completely done. The first one took the longest to do. I cleaned them all out and put 7000 in the front, 5000 in the center, and 3000 in the rear. While I was at it I cleaned up shocks and polished the shock shafts and installed 50 in the fronts and 40 in the rears what an improvement that made in the movement of the suspension. I noticed that my shock boots a torn and need to be replaced, I am going to replace them and get some shock socks to cover the springs to help protect them from getting torn again. The diffs also have a huge improvement, they are so much smoother than with the grease.
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6sharky9



Joined: 15 May 2012
Posts: 18
Location: Alabama

PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

any updates?
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