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Hyper 9 Setup discussion.
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 5:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, what you guys are saying is that with the updates to fix a problem they have created a problem by making the car not legal for sanctioned races.

Did they not take this into consideration when addressing these issues.

I'm gonna be pretty pissed if I can't pass tech at the regionals this weekend with a car that's too wide because of the new arms. Especially since they could have produced shorter shafts to fix the problem instead of making longer arms.

Kortz has been using a wider car, has he had trouble passing tech?
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Ole C



Joined: 03 Oct 2007
Posts: 110
Location: Norway

PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

they used standard 9 parts, except from the longer gen 3 arms.

I'm a little confused, does the 9 come with +1 hubs? We have the +2,5 hubs, but havent tried them yet.
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 5:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am running the "New" gen 3 arms I purchased from Nitrohouse with the standard hubs in the front and the +1 hubs in the rear.

I really hope I pass with this setup or what was the point of buying the updated parts?
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Casketman



Joined: 23 Jul 2006
Posts: 495
Location: Braidwood,IL,USA

PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think there will be an issue. I use the +1 hubs on the front just to have a wider front. The only thing that made the car wide was the amount of toe out I had.
I don't have a number as to how far out it was but the power was off too so the old guy had a hard time keeping the wheels straight.


Last edited by Casketman on Thu Aug 13, 2009 11:46 am; edited 1 time in total
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ODB



Joined: 19 Dec 2008
Posts: 36
Location: UK

PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have raced my car at the last two UK nationals with the new front wishbones without failing tech. If it's tight you could try some of these:

http://www.rc-sience.homepage.t-online.de/PSM_STORE/category.php?id_category=7

The -1mm hubs...

I use the std on the front and the +1mm on the rear.

Dave
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that's somewhat reassuring....thanks to you both!!
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Ole C



Joined: 03 Oct 2007
Posts: 110
Location: Norway

PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been told that the measuring box was bent so it was too narrow at one end, but that hasn't been confirmed.

So it might be a problem with the measuring device used at this race. Just wanted to check if anyone has had any problems with the width of the car with the new arms.
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Hypenain



Joined: 12 Jun 2009
Posts: 22

PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ole C wrote:
I've been told that the measuring box was bent so it was too narrow at one end, but that hasn't been confirmed.

So it might be a problem with the measuring device used at this race. Just wanted to check if anyone has had any problems with the width of the car with the new arms.


New arms, +1mm hexes, -1 camber and 1.5 toe out = a tight fit but will pass.
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YZFAndy



Joined: 17 Feb 2009
Posts: 80

PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HyperGRP wrote:
So, what you guys are saying is that with the updates to fix a problem they have created a problem by making the car not legal for sanctioned races.

This is what i was thinking. The poop(<< lol, it changed what i said) was really going to hit the fan if that was the case!

The new length arms are also meant as a fix to the upper A arm splits. The turn buckles were too long as well when using negative camber. so to shorten the driveshafts wouldn't have totally solved the problem and it would have still left the top A arms braking.

Just to add to a resolve in the upper A arms, you can file or drimel off the hard edge to the turn buckle thread which will also reduce the sress point and breakages.
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Casketman



Joined: 23 Jul 2006
Posts: 495
Location: Braidwood,IL,USA

PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here at the ROAR Nats in July. Just a plastic gauge was used and it was just swiped over the front and rear wheels.

I also know they checked how long the car was hub to hub. I know Kortz was running his custom +6 chassis and seeing he raced,that must of made it but he must of had that thing so close to being to long.
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Ole C



Joined: 03 Oct 2007
Posts: 110
Location: Norway

PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We had a race here this sunday, and I did some testing with droop settings on my car.

When running full droop on the car it was very unstable and twitchy. When I reduced the droop in the rear the car was much more stable. The more I reduced the droop in the front, it gained steering, untill it became too agressive for me to drive.

Front:
Heigth - 25mm
Droop - ride heigth + 21mm (46mm total)
Shock length - 110mm

Rear:
Height - 30mm
Droop - ride heigth + 19mm (49mm total)
Shock length - 122mm

Ride heigth is a little more than I would normally use, I actually thougth it was lower...

Point is, the droop changed the handling dramatically! I could adjust front/rear grip just by turning the droop screw.

For the semi final I changed the tires from Gridiron to I-beam, and the car had NO grip...

Is the droop something you guys normally change according to tires? I think I would have gained something by adjusting to less droop F & R when running the I-beam tires (which i know has less sidebite). I changed to what I thought would be a safer tire for a semi. Wrong decission...
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Casketman



Joined: 23 Jul 2006
Posts: 495
Location: Braidwood,IL,USA

PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 12:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the most part here at my track people run the same set of tires unless they need new ones or they try to get their tire testing done before the quals are done but that sometimes doesn't work out. There's never enough time lol.

I always mess around with the droop but I don't have anything to measure that so I just go by how far off from level the drive shafts are.
I've noticed for me that if the rear has full droop. The car is to loose in the rear end going into a corner under hard braking.

I've seen a couple of guys here spend 2 tanks of fuel in practice just adjusting the droop in their car to where they felt good with it.
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YZFAndy+1



Joined: 13 Aug 2009
Posts: 42

PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ole C wrote:
When running full droop on the car it was very unstable and twitchy. When I reduced the droop in the rear the car was much more stable. The more I reduced the droop in the front, it gained steering, untill it became too agressive for me to drive.


Droop has a big effect on this car. I found much the same thing when i first started to drive this car, much more than anything else i've driven.

But i never found it made the front more aggressive. Maybe you have over compensated somewhere else from having too much droop!
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Felipe



Joined: 05 Apr 2006
Posts: 470
Location: Winter Haven FL

PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here my set up;
chassis 4x4
Front
17mm shock
upper arm inside #2
upper arm hub #1
upper shock #2
middle ackerman
5000 diff oil
30wt shock
piston 3x1.3 3x1.6
shock length 109mm
white springs
+1mm wheel hubs
upgrade lower arms
dog bones level
2.2mm sway bar
-1.5 camber
1 deg toe out

Center
5000 diff oil
stock diff
stock motor mount 25 deg.
JLR flywheel
JLR shoe
Hobao 1.0 springs

Rear
17mm shock
3000 diff oil
2 deg anti squad
3 deg toe out
inside camber link #1
outside on hub #1
lower hub #2
upper shock #4
lower shock #2
2.4mm sway bar
3 deg toe in
-2 deg camber
middle wheel base
stock wheel hubs
shock length 121mm

Note;The 4x4 chassis and new lower front arms made a big differences on the handling of the car is more predictable and consistance.Next week I'll be testing with the +1.5mm in the front and +1mm in the rear.If some one want to run my set up tell me what you like and don't like so far this is the best set up for my driving style we run on blue groove loose dust on top surface.
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Ole C



Joined: 03 Oct 2007
Posts: 110
Location: Norway

PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2009 1:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

YZFAndy+1 wrote:
But i never found it made the front more aggressive. Maybe you have over compensated somewhere else from having too much droop!


I've been thinking the same...
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