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:::::Hyper ST Conversion:::::

 
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Hyper ST-E Guy



Joined: 09 Jul 2009
Posts: 8
Location: Caifornia

PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 12:45 am    Post subject: :::::Hyper ST Conversion::::: Reply with quote

This is what I call the Hyper ST-E.

My main focus was to convert it to electric and cut as much weight as possible. Can't complain, pretty happy with the outcome. Managed to shed over a pound from Pro Kit and the conversion worked out near perfect. F/R balance is really good, just a tad nose heavy but by sliding the battery to the rear the weight was effectively transferred. Another suggestion to anyone converting their Hyper is to sit the battery on its side rather than laying flat, this allows the weight to shift to the center of chassis. Big Ups to my Big Bro Eddie for the help and direction. Below is a part conversion breakdown:

- Custom Carbon Shock Towers & Carbon Center Brace (Courtesy UK Hyper ST Friend, 200 plus grams lighter than Pro Kit Shock Towers & Center Brace). (These Custom Upgrade parts are simply the best, 4mm Towers/5mm Center Brace).

- RC Monster Hyper Motor Mount.

- OFNA 16mm Big Bore Shocks

- Jammin X2-CRT F/R Captured Hinge Pins (Used a Dremel to grind down the plastic nipples on the A-Arms to accommodate Hinge Pin length). (This upgrade removed all the slop in the F/R suspension).

- Kyosho ST-R Rear Brace (Modification on both Plastic Ends and cut ends of brace for appropriate length).

- Kyosho ST- R Center Diff w/ 46T Spur Gear (Modification needed on front Diff Post. Used 1.5mm plastic spacer to lift post/diff higher to accommodate RC Monster Motor Mount). (The Kyosho Diff is much lighter than the Pro Kit Spider Diff and the plastic 46T Spur is much lighter than the Farris Wheel 52T and has a quieter gear mesh).

- Associated RC8 Rear Brace (Modification on both Plastic Ends and cut ends of brace to make proper length). (Additionally, had to use two hex ball ends, if you try and use the eye-ball end, the front ball end will bind against top steering plate).

- Associated RC8 Radio/Servo Box (Trim down the plastic along side servo box to prevent rubbing against center drive shaft).

- Associated RC8E Velcro Battery Straps

- Associated RC8T Titanium Rear Upper Turnbuckles (Shaved some weight compared to Pro Kit Turnbuckles).

- Losi 8E Battery Tray (Cut slots in the tray to allow the battery to lay on its side rather then flat, makes Hyper more balanced and brings battery closer to center chassis)

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bpoates25



Joined: 06 Jun 2008
Posts: 212

PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

great work there! i see this side of the hobby really taking off. i just want ta know what kind of run times your getting and how long are your pit stops?
just interested although ill stay with nitro i wanna know more about this. i used ta run a traxxas trx1 1/10 brushed w/ sanyo packs and a novak peak charger. that was the 90's.
since being introduced to 1/8th scale nitro i love it.
let me know how your races go?
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Hyper ST-E Guy



Joined: 09 Jul 2009
Posts: 8
Location: Caifornia

PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How's it going bpoates25?

Many thanks, as for run time, my packs average 15 min and I run 5000mah 4S 30c LiPo pack. As for pit time, they race 10 min heats thus avoiding too pit. In the event that there is 20 min race the pit can take 15-20 sec because you have to take the body off and unstrap the battery and reload another pack. It may seem like an eternity to pit but everyone else is doing the same so its not a problem.

Nitro is great and nothing will ever replace the sound, feel, and smell of nitro as the smoke leaves the pipe , but honestly electric is soooooo much more reliable and requires next to no maintenance on the ESC, motor, and battery. If you use a plastic spur your pinion never wears out and those plastic gears hold up as long as you stay on top of the mesh. Not to mention those spur gears are enxpensive. I really enjoy working on my setup and wrenching on my car than spending hours maintaining the nitro engine. It is also very clean and does not heat up as long as you have your power to gear ratio correct. My motor runs at 120 degrees. You will also never get a run away or accidentally have your engine wind out. One more thing, electric is also less expensive in the mid too long run.

These are just a few positive aspects electric has compared to nitro. Don't get me wrong, NITRO is out of this world. I am not talking down to all the NITRO heads just stating my personal opinion. Hope this may help you out with making a potential decision about giving electric a shot.

Cheers
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bpoates25



Joined: 06 Jun 2008
Posts: 212

PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah nitro has the realism effect. however i remember back in the day when it was time to do my wrenching it was cleaner and a-lot more less time consuming. once you get over the initial cost to get up and running electric im sure it evens out. a gallon of fuel every couple weeks adds up alone. then your high end mills only last a season. give or take. plus the mess gets old. i used ta love wrenching now i look at it as a chore.

in fact i need to change fluids and do a rebuild basically and its at the point where i look at the truck and say later i get at it. then ill run it again and thats not good.

i think if i was to go brushless i would just get another ride. the new losi buggy looks cool. i dont know im gonna study more.

thanks for answering the questions about run times. not bad. and brushless i must say have massive torque and are freakin fast.

something im gonna check into with time.
keep up the great work and win!
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bpoates25



Joined: 06 Jun 2008
Posts: 212

PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

speaking of run aways had one the other day and i run the futaba fasst system. the problem was one of my wires got pinched from my battery lead and i lost power. could have been avoided when i put the top on the battery box. just in a hurry i guess.

however it was freakin hillarious watching me chase the st down a city street , rather out run and cussing every step. luckily it hit a ditch vered off the street and hit a post and i got to it sec. later smashed my finger over the stinger and killed the s.o.b.

you are correct they are no fun.
happy days, sure
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Hyper ST-E Guy



Joined: 09 Jul 2009
Posts: 8
Location: Caifornia

PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sucks!!

I think we have all had a few nitro runaways. I was at the track some weeks back and this guy rolled up with RC8T Nitro all tricked out with this new Modded engine. I was on the stand and he was wrenching on his Truggy, all of a sudden I hear this kick booty engine winding out top RPM and he couldn't shut the thing off. Not sure if he snapped his rod but that ####ing bites, $400 plus on the line.......

That can ruin your week or even month
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Jonathan B.



Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 376

PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hyper ST-E Guy - ..looks killer..!!!
Who's 3mm lock nuts are you using??
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