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Force .32 Temp problems. Please Help!!

 
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andreas_h92



Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 63

PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:19 am    Post subject: Force .32 Temp problems. Please Help!! Reply with quote

hey,

My force .32 is overheating. Once reached at 350F. I was using a rapicon fuel 23% and an O.S. #8 Glow plug. My engine was rich. A lot of smoke was taking off the pipe. Also i sealed the carburetor for possible air leaks. For the measures i was using a venom onboard temp unit which records the highest temperature reached during the bashing/racing. Maybe venom temp unit is not that good!?
What to do to avoid overheating?? Please help!!



EDIT: I figured out that while i was blowing into the vent line of the fuel tank and plugging the fuel line the lid of the tank slightly opened! Does this cause an overheating of the engine???
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Paradoxmaker



Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 3573
Location: Keller, Texas

PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1st things 1st
Your using the wrong glow plug. OS plugs are not for Force engines no matter what the hobby shop tells you. The Force engines need a MC/McCoy style plug which is longer than the Os plugs.

try an MC8 or MC9.

2nd
Yes the Venom onboard temp gauges leave a lot to be desired. In my experience they are not very accurate at all. Yes knowing the highest temp is nice, but if your reading different areas then it doesn't matter. Keep in mind that different parts of the engine read different temps.
Temps are normally taken with an IR thermometer pointed directly down on the top of the glow plug. With a venom, the temp will be different depending on where you stuck the thermocouple bead. the bead will read much higher if it's near the exhaust header vs if it' near the carb.
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andreas_h92



Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 63

PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paradoxmaker wrote:
1st things 1st
Your using the wrong glow plug. OS plugs are not for Force engines no matter what the hobby shop tells you. The Force engines need a MC/McCoy style plug which is longer than the Os plugs.

try an MC8 or MC9.


My hobby shop does not have mccoy plugs, so i ordered from ebay a packet of 10! they are on the way now:)

Paradoxmaker wrote:
With a venom, the temp will be different depending on where you stuck the thermocouple bead. the bead will read much higher if it's near the exhaust header vs if it' near the carb.


The bead is between the cooling head and the crankcase, like the pipe spring.




By the way what about air leaks on the fuel tank?? should i replace it?
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Paradoxmaker



Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 3573
Location: Keller, Texas

PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

andreas_h92 wrote:
The bead is between the cooling head and the crankcase, like the pipe spring.


Right, that is where the loop should be, but what i meant by the bead is where the 2 pieces of the wire come together.

The TC wire out of the meter is a loop that you put around the head, but only the tip where the 2 sides come together measures the temp. So depending on where you put the tip, the temps will be different. If the tip is close to the exhaust side it will be hotter than in other places on the head.

andreas_h92 wrote:
By the way what about air leaks on the fuel tank?? should i replace it?


Yeah, all airleaks should be fixed if nothing else to eliminate them as a problem.
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andreas_h92



Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 63

PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think i fixed all air leaks but it's getting hot as before.. today i got 400F. dang IT!!
I will wait till i got the mccoy plugs and try again. if nothing i will replace the fuel tank and maybe the carb. by the way my engine has only 5/6 of gallon. it's still new, and there are temp problems
What about head shims?
Adding one more head shim would be a good idea?
By the way i am wondering if the type of the pipe affects the temp and how. Thanks
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andreas_h92



Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 63

PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 3:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

By the way the guy at the local hobby store gave me a rapicon fuel 23%. On the fuel bottle there is no any label writting that this fuel is for Cars/trucks.
I am afraid the fuel he gave me is a heli fuel!
I know that heli fuels overheat the engine, but do the heli fuels damage other parts? PLEASE HELP.

THANKS
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Buggin



Joined: 23 Jul 2007
Posts: 447

PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

andreas_h92 wrote:
By the way the guy at the local hobby store gave me a rapicon fuel 23%. On the fuel bottle there is no any label writting that this fuel is for Cars/trucks.
I am afraid the fuel he gave me is a heli fuel!
I know that heli fuels overheat the engine, but do the heli fuels damage other parts? PLEASE HELP.

THANKS

See reply in engine lounge............
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H8



Joined: 09 May 2006
Posts: 524
Location: Perth, Western Australia

PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

+1
This is a pointless topic until your running the right fuel!
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andreas_h92



Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 63

PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

H8 wrote:
+1
This is a pointless topic until your running the right fuel!


I didn't realize from the beginning that the fuel was for helicopters.
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andreas_h92



Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 63

PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

got MC-8 plugs, got car fuel 25% and temps reaches 400F every time i run this engine.. Also i got a new fuel tank and carb and sealed the carb and backplate, but still reaching at 400F.. Any other suggestions?
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DJ



Joined: 22 Jun 2006
Posts: 979

PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

at 400 degrees your plug would have been done and you would need to replace that plug, if your still starting the car with the same plug and the engine is still running like it sounding fine then your 400 degress from your temp probe is inacurate. Do the spit test on the cooling head, once your engine has some heat in it then put a dab of spit on the head if it goes away in less than tree seconds then yes your engine is way too hot, if you dab it and it takes about 10 seconds to dry up then the engine is running ok, and if the engine was bazing at 400 then your engine would smell burnt and smoke would be comming off the block and pipe.

Needle settings after break-in should be 3 turns out from closed on the high speed and the low sould still be around flush.
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andreas_h92



Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 63

PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

plug still good, but when I "read" the plug (based this site: http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/Glow-plug-reading.html) I found out that the engine was running lean, because the glow plug colored black. BUT still using the same glow plug. Also NO smell of burnt but some smoke was coming off the pipe and block. Also I did the test on the cooling head once, and if i am not wrong it took around 5-7 seconds to dry up. I am very confused and a little disappointed..
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