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Hyper 8.5 Weight Goal: Under 7 Lbs 2 Oz...Done...
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jonathan B. wrote:
sweet! I already have those shims :) I use them for shimming my clutch. I don't shim my bellcrank though. What can the slop cause to happen? anything?


No! A little less wheel wobble though!
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Jonathan B.



Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 376

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you shim your bellcrank? How many shims do u use & what size, & do you add them in the top or the bottom? I would think adding the shims to the top?

Last edited by Jonathan B. on Tue Feb 10, 2009 5:08 pm; edited 1 time in total
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I add to the top. If you can see the post sticking up past the aluminum spacer then just add shims level to the post.
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Jonathan B.



Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 376

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

& how many shims do u use & what size?
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i can't recall off hand. but if you take off the top plate and you can see some of the steering post coming out above the aluminum spacer, add shims on top of the spacer until you are level with the top of the steering post. Then try not to knock them off when putting the top plate back on.
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Jonathan B.



Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 376

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

k yea maybe I'll put a 0.1 or .2 shim there. Don't think it needs a .3,.. you do want some play, just a little, but not as much as it has with out the shims.
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds about right. I needed more shims on the servo side on mine!
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Jonathan B.



Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 376

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HyperGRP wrote:
If you don't shim the inside of your diff then you might need up to 0.6mm of shims per side. It's best to dry fit first! a little play is fine but you definately don't want it to bind at all! The Kyo. shims give you plenty of options.


yea the only shims that are inside my diffs, are the shims on the little crosspin gears. So put the shims on the inside of the diff on the outdrive?? Or put the shims on the outdrive then put the outdrive through the diff cup? Do you put your shims on the inside the diff, or.......???
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I only put wide shims inside the rear diff because of the thinner oil.

The Kyosho shims go on the shaft before inserting it!
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Jonathan B.



Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 376

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HyperGRP wrote:
I only put wide shims inside the rear diff because of the thinner oil.


& why is that?
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it covers the o-rings and adds a little more pressure to it. less likely to leak! IMO
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Jonathan B.



Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 376

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I really shouldn't be posting these pics of my buggy here cause it's not under 7 lbs 2 oz. I don't know the exact weight of my buggy cause I don't have a scale to weigh it, but Rob Bender's buggy is just under 7 lbs 2 oz & my buggy is just a couple ounces heavier than his. I don't have the steering servo holder cut out, there is still room on the center diff brace to dill a couple more holes out & do just little milling out in a couple spots, I have some alum. & titanium screws in, but not all, I still have a few more titanium & alum. screws to get & put in, would like to get the Kyosho lightened outdrives for front & rear diff, still need to get cnc brake cams, I don't have all the cnc balls & I need to get the cnc ball collars. Don't think I'll get the carbon fiber towers or ackerman steering plate. I am very happy with the way my buggy is as of now though, but if I get & do all that stuff, that will shed a few ounces off.

Anyways, here is pics of my buggy as of now.

















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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good! It's so clean it doesn't look like it's been used.

I like the yellow side guards...where did you find them!

Nice shiny new fuel tank too!
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Jonathan B.



Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 376

PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. & thanks for saying how clean it looks & doesn't look like it's been used. haha I haven't actually cleaned it since 4 tanks of practice, 1 club race & a two day event race. Just pulled the motor out, radio tray, & tank & just brushed of the dirt with a med.soft paint brush. Sorry for the couple blurry pics.

the yellow side guards are actually Hyper 7 guards.

the tank isn't brand new, has about a gallon through it :D
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just finished swapping out the 4mm screws for titaniums!
Now all but 8 screws are titanium!
I also changed 20 steel lock nuts to Associated blue aluminum lock nuts.= Thanks JB

4mm Mugen titanium chassis screws = 12g
4mm stock steel chassis screws = 22g

3mm Associated aluminum lock nuts = 4.27g
3mm stock steel lock nuts = 9.06g

The Associated lock nuts are flanged so I was able to remove
the washers in front of the 16mm big bores upper mount!

I put Losi Nomex tape on the side of the fuel tank because the pipe almost touches it now!

I also removed the foam inside the battery box and rearranged the elecs.
I will be installing Futaba Fasst receivers this weekend and I hear they like to breath. It is going to look nice and clean!

I put my Spektrum HRS stuff on Ebay! Unfortunately, my HRS module is too modified to sell. I did the antenna mod to my 3PK and I put the Spektrum HRS module in a Futaba Synthesized case. The Spektrum stuff never fit the 3PK right! This is probably a One-of-a-Kind so I will post a pic!






After I get the receivers installed and balance the chassis I will post new weight and pics!


Last edited by HyperGRP on Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:03 pm; edited 3 times in total
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