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Hyper 8.5 Weight Goal: Under 7 Lbs 2 Oz...Done...
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote















Last edited by HyperGRP on Mon Feb 09, 2009 12:32 am; edited 2 times in total
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



The biggest weight reduction gain(haha a pun) you can do is go with a set of carbon fiber shock towers. I went with the 3mm rear and it weighs under 16grams as opposed to this!
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 12:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks Jonathan..glad you approve!



ok!
Please bear with me as I try to describe everything for those that might be curious. Feel free to poke fun at my grammatical prowess!

List of Mods with Brief and sometimes Long-Winded Descriptions:

Cut Chassis front and rear to reduce scrub points= Thanks for the tip Nitrohouse/Rob/Special K/

Carbon Fiber Shock Towers and Steering Ackerman = big reduction! Great heads-up Beuz!

Cut the mud guards down to narrow this fatty a little! Gonna try a MBX6 body! Might have to bring them in another mm or 2. We'll see!

Drilled the rear chassis brace.

Milled center brace(looks hacked, sits nice, won't trap dirt, looks stock, saved 11g)

Milled underside of front chassis brace(looks stock, won't trap dirt, saved more g's than drilling)!

The end of the rear brace boke off after a friend(driving) cased a landing. The long screw had come out so only the thin part was secure. Of course... the brace flipped up and jammed the throttle open causing a runaway. Thankfully it came unstuck before a catastrophe. The funny part is that he had two runaways of his own cars that day and was all done! I said to him "I've never had a runaway"! He borrows my car at just the right time and "voila" runaway 3 for the day. Poor guy! Anyway, if that never happened I probably wouldn't have done the mod in the pic which is a lot stronger and less likely to fail!

Cut the steering servo mount.

Relocated the switch to the backside of the battery box......got nervous......installed a guard.

Female charge lead with plug to keep it clean, shoe-gooed to box. Cut recess for wires!

Cut servo and chassis mounting tabs off side of switch mount and installed an extra radio tray post (purchased from Nitrohouse ) left over from my Hyper ST. Chassis hole and servo line up perfectly!

CNC brake cams(both long) with AE RC8 brake linkage. Cut angled section off front cam.

With a lipo and Hitec TG servos the radio tray weighs in at 11.8oz. I'm a big fan of Hitec servos. Haven't had a failure and there's no need to buy and aftermarket horn. Hitec HD horns are second to none IMO!

I tried the Kortz's upper arm mod but thought it too sloppy for my peace of mind. I cut the angle off the upper AA's. Still very strong and under impact has enough flex to not break. It might not look it but there is still plenty of material there! Same performance benefits as Kortz's mod or better and a lot less slop. Only slighty heavier!

Cut section off lower arm where roll bar mounts. AKA and Pro-Line V2 rims rub too much at full throw. Added bonus is its easier to remove roll bar for diff access. No real structural loss!

Cut web out off inner most triangled section off lower arm. The I-Beam like design of the arms allows for minor modification without losing rigidity.

CNC flanged steering balls w/countersink screw for "No-Pop" steering linkage!

Swapped out lower bulkhead screws(long screws for holding both halves together) for titanium screws(also sold at Nitrohouse).

Used plastic wing mount posts instead of aluminum.

Removed webbing from rear arms.

Removed some bulk from front and rear inner hinge braces level with ends of chassis screws.

Losi 8 air filter. Filter holder made from Mini Inferno shock wire. Splash guard heated and shaped to comply with filter. Never did like the Hyper ones...too many parts and screws to hold up a filter!!!

Fastrax Fast17 90degree fuel nipple for better angle off of tank!

Jammin' center uni's. Front not in picture because WHOOPs..I broke it!

Drivetrain!!

Ofna lightened spur gear. between 21g and 26g roughly, depending on which p/n you get. Stock is 30.52g!

CNC Differential Cross Pins. Running these is basically the equivalent of removing 4 steel cross pins from the drivetrain(very nice).

HoBao lighweight center outputs! About 10.3g. Only about 1g saving over stock(boo)

Kyosho MP9 outputs F&R. 8.63g each!(best) Stock HoBao 11.5g!

Kyosho outdrives need to be shimmed out between 0.3 to 0.5mm depending on if, or how, you shim the inside of the diff. To put it simple the HoBao's have a built in spacer(reveal) which the Kyosho's do not. The shim just remove the play in and out! One package of Kyosho 6x8mm shims will give you what you need.

I used Mugen Titanium screws for the diffs. Same size as the steel screws half the weight!

I don't think I can go any lighter in the drivetrain unless i try Kyosho center outputs. Oh well! I'm open to suggestions!

Jammin' Big Bores!!!

F/ Kyosho 1.2x8 hole pistons 42.5wt Losi
R/ Kyosho 1.3x8 hole pistons 40wt Losi/testing
The better quality and higher hole count in the Kyosho pistons allow the use of thicker oil that should be more consistent in hotter temps!

Aluminum shock standoffs in rear. Waiting for friend to bring fronts down to 17mm for me before I install!

I've got Titanium screws on the way and hopefully some JDCarbon hinge pins if he ever decides to ship them. It's been almost 4 weeks.! He said he was gonna ship but now 3 weeks later he won't answer an inquiry! Burnt!!

After I'm done with the weight reduction I'm sure I'll add some back on.
Probably under the throttle servo to help balance left to right!

Sorry if some of you might think this is to much info. I'm also thinkin' of the new guys/gals that's all!

The speeling ma bee a bat bitty bekaws itz 4:30im!


Last edited by HyperGRP on Thu Feb 12, 2009 6:53 pm; edited 9 times in total
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 12:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The milling under the engine is because GRP's tend to sit on the chassis!

Now that I am going to be using the Fioroni sliding clutch, I unfortunately had to raise the engine 1mm because the flywheel is so big and close to the very bottom of the chassis it made me nervous about bumping the engine off.

If your new and running a GRP check to make sure the engine isn't touching the chassis. That goes for all engines actually!
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Jonathan B.



Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 376

PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

is the set screw in the diff titanium as well!??!
& those are the kings head motor mounts your using? Are they not as tall as the HoBao mounts? maybe that's why you had to mill out the chassis under where the engine sits to give it more clearance

how is your transponder mounted on?
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The set screw is steel. looks good though! I haven't been able to find titanium set screw or locking nuts yet!

That's only the bottom half of the KH mounts. The top block stays on the engine!

I'm going to post again in a few!
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Jonathan B.



Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 376

PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea I dunno of anyone who has titanium set screws. Would like to have them though.
Ofna has blue alum. lock nuts part #10363 NitroHouse has them


Last edited by Jonathan B. on Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:27 pm; edited 1 time in total
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! I honestly can't believe that didn't cross my mind!

I'll get right on that!
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Jonathan B.



Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 376

PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea u can get blue alum. screws too
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just finished the 3mm Titanium screw swap! At first glance I didn't think is was going to work out well. But after all said and done I swapped every 3mm screw except 2 hub link screws, 4 steering ball link screws, and 2 screw that hold the rear brace to the chassis! Not Bad!!! Expensive though!!!!

I had to cut the screws for the lower shock ends. First time I've cut titanium...very bright. Kinda like looking into a flashlight!

I got 4mm titan's coming on thurs. Goin into the poor house soon! LOL!

Here's the lastest weigh in!

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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pics a little blurry. this Scale says only 1oz differece than previous weight.

My small scale tells me almost 1.5 oz. in reduction by swapping screws.


Last edited by HyperGRP on Tue Feb 10, 2009 6:02 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Jonathan B.



Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 376

PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hyper GRP dude u gotta stop posting these pics,..I going crazy here. I'm tryin' to save up for a new car, but from seeing your 8.5, I wanna modd the hell outta my 8.5 even more now lol
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was thinking of going with the Hyper9 myself but I only have about 2/3's of a season on this. Got an 8.5 and got rid of my hopped-up 8ight! Too much maintanence with losi.
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Jonathan B.



Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 376

PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NitroHouse's/Rob Bender's H8.5 a whiiiiiile back

he had braces drilled out + much more done,..these are just the couple pics I had of his buggy






Last edited by Jonathan B. on Mon Feb 09, 2009 2:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I sold my hyper st to a kid in my rc club for $300 with an O.S. 28XZ w new P&S! I replaced it with an X2. Instead of buying a new buggy too, I thought I would just turn this one into a little winter project. I live in CT!

I like the 8.5 and I figure it's still a contender even with all the newer stuff that's out. It's seems R/C is becoming like PC's...outdated every three months!(not quite..but close)
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