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Hyper 8.5 Weight Goal: Under 7 Lbs 2 Oz...Done...
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Chris S



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 39

PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When using the 808/Kortz mod, there is quite a lot of compliance and the plastics tend to wear faster. I've used a couple of M3 grub screws to take up any excess movement.

My chassis is getting the chop over the next couple of days. Going to hold back from milling at the moment.


RobB wrote:
The 5-cell AA battery pack is very heavy. You will loose alot of weight by switching to either a LiPo setup, or even just using the 1700mAh standard reciever battery...
Have Fun...Burn Nitro...

Its all my local shop had in at the time, that or a stick pack. Going to pick up a smaller pack when I visit my LHS to pick up some new tools. The battery should be around 25g ligther, so thats almost an ounce
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Chris S



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 39

PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

beuz wrote:
Hi

I forgot to check the weight of my chassis before cutting and milling it

Someone can confirm the weight of the standart Chassis FR+2 ?

Thanks
BeuZ


308g for a 2+2 chassis. Mine is quite worn around the back. I've just chopped the back of my chassis and given a few areas a tidy up, lost 12g.

Next up is the chassis and Ti hingepins. Then I should be down to 3.5kg or 7lbs 11oz.



1.5g saved, a lot of effort for little saving.


3g saved, also stops water and dirt building up behind the servo.



5g saved on each wishbone and no breakages yet.


5g saved.


5g saved.


Added a couple of grub screws to pin the hingpin, I can dial out the slop in the suspension arms so setup can be made accurately.


I'd like to mount the transponder above the the steering servo, but the lead is too short.


15g saved, going to ditch the hyper radio box, as its not waterproof, going to stick the reciever further up the chassis in one box, then mount the battery in another box at the end of the radio tray.

Fibreglass (Craddock) brake discs save 15g. I've not use aluminium screws, but shortened many of them where possible.


Last edited by Chris S on Sat Nov 22, 2008 2:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the idea for shaving weight from the center brace, but it looks like the drilled holes would collect a lot of dirt which would just add weight back on plus be a pain to clean! What I did was mill out the underside to keep it clean and stock looking. I was surprised that I actually got a 10.66g weight reduction! (my scale measures hundredths)

I also did the same with the front chassis brace. The first time I drilled holes but I didn't like the look. The second one I milled underneath and actually took off a little more weight than drilling. It is still strong and still looks stock.

I drilled the steering ackerman on my ST and it broke so for the buggy I just went with carbon fiber.

Oh yeah, I did away with the transponder mount all together and just mounted it above the steering servo. Shoe Goo is as useful as Duct Tape!
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scdrj



Joined: 08 Sep 2007
Posts: 90
Location: Texas

PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Below is my offroad chassis (Left), dirt oval chassis (Center), and a H8 chassis for contrast on the Right. The offroad chassis is a FR2, but the oval chassis is +4 in the R. It is also 0.5mm thinner. I would have just changed to the new H9, but I have had some of this stuff for almost two years and never ran it. I'll run these for two years until the H10 comes out.
http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/1029/200901100023fe5.jpg
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bboots583



Joined: 31 Oct 2006
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you guys cut the chassis like the pictures above, are you using different mud gaurds? I would like to trim the chassis and make it thinner and not so round in the mid section. Once the chassis is cut has anyone tried to fit different bodies? I am think about an 8ight or 808 body. What do you guys think?
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Chris S



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 39

PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeremy Kortz narrowed the orginal sideguards and then used a different body: http://ofna.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9085


http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/xcgal/displayimage.php?pid=6738&album=52&pos=6
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Jonathan B.



Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 376

PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nIce find there Chris
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Chris S



Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 39

PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its tempting to do the mod to my 8.5, as the hyper proline body is terrible, the rear tyres catch on the back of the body. Using a J concepts shell at the moment which cures the problem and keeps most of the much out.

Then again, its being sold soon to be replaced with something a bit newer. Still cant make my mind up between Losi, Xray, Mugen, Hyper 9.
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Nitrohouse,

Is your buggy weighing in at 7lbs 2oz with the tires, engine, and body on?

At the moment mine weighs 7lbs 6.6 oz with tires and engine. I haven't gone with the titanium hinge pins yet because I want to try carbon fiber pins first. I am going to be swaping the screws with Mugen titanium screws which should shed a little more weight.

I've lightened the drivetrain considerably buy using the lightweight spur gear, light center outputs, cnc cross pins, titanium screws, and Kyosho MP9 outputs f&r!
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scdrj



Joined: 08 Sep 2007
Posts: 90
Location: Texas

PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pictures?
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't posted pics here before and I don't know which method is best but I'll try. Some images will be similar to what's already posted on this forum...sorry! If I can do this correctly, I'll post the image with a discription of what I did.

I wasn't planning on breaking down my car, but since you called me out on it I figured...what the heck!


Last edited by HyperGRP on Sun Feb 08, 2009 9:44 pm; edited 2 times in total
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



First, sorry for the large pics!

This is the weight with all electronics and engine. It still has steel suspension balls, suspension pins, and screws. i don't think I'll switch to CNC suspension balls but I am going to swap out as many steel screws as I can with Mugen titanium screws. Titanium screws weigh approximately half what their steel counterparts do! Unfortunately they cost about 4 times as much!

I think my favorite new part is the fuel nipple! Looks so much cleaner!


Last edited by HyperGRP on Mon Feb 09, 2009 2:05 am; edited 2 times in total
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Jonathan B.



Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 376

PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ooohoo that's sick. looks good HyperGRP!.

Really!!?!!? You got it under 7lbs!!?!!?! wow daaaaaang

are those the cf shock towers & ackerman??

got more pics!??!
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am posting more as we speak. i'm just a little slow!
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HyperGRP



Joined: 01 Dec 2008
Posts: 137

PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

O yeah they are the CF parts from Model Concept France!
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