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Older Worlds Buggy

 
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Beatnik



Joined: 21 Jan 2012
Posts: 11

PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 6:13 pm    Post subject: Older Worlds Buggy Reply with quote

I have an Ultra Worlds buggy that I half built years ago I'm thinking of finishing and taking to the track. Reading here it may share some parts with some newer models in the LX Series cars so parts might be available when I break them, is this right ?

Any suggestions on upgrades that would update it a bit ?
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Buggin



Joined: 23 Jul 2007
Posts: 447

PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finish putting together what ya have and run it. Too many people get hung up on the latest and greatest. I am still running my heavily modded MBX Comp, aka Frankenbuggy and it runs out front with any current latest and greatest over priced junk. 99.9% of any race is driver. I quit running at local club races because it just got too expensive for me. Some guys say it was becuase I couldn't hang with the newest and greatest overpriced buggy they bought. It stills burns their butts when I show up for track maintenance and practices only to have my buggy act as a rag to chase for the rest of the dogs :clap
As far as parts go, yes LX parts will fit. Enjoy. :drive
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MotionMachine999



Joined: 20 Oct 2005
Posts: 1721
Location: Land of Oz

PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 5:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most World replacement parts are still available but you'll likely need the "updated" part numbers to order them. Try cross referencing with the Ultra GT or GTLX manual(s).
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Beatnik



Joined: 21 Jan 2012
Posts: 11

PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I'm not too concerned about latest and greatest. I ran a Traxxas TRX-3 buggy against Associated and Losi for years.

I'm having trouble figuring out exactly what I have, the manual in front of me says Ultra Worlds GT which is not even on the OFNA manuals page ?
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Beatnik



Joined: 21 Jan 2012
Posts: 11

PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 3:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, sitting for ten plus years all the diff oil leaked out. Looks like I must have studied up because I have a bottle of Mugen #3000 and #5000 in the box.

So, should the diff turn smooth when assembled or be a bit tight ? When I follow the directions "tighten until one thread sticks from housing then back off 1/4 turn" they still seem tight to me ? It has these units 31324
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Buggin



Joined: 23 Jul 2007
Posts: 447

PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 5:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They should spin very smooth to the feel. Resistance is dependent on fluid choice, if a gear is messed up, bad bearing(s), something not together correctly, ect. Take it apart again and double check everything.
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Beatnik



Joined: 21 Jan 2012
Posts: 11

PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My fault, I didn't know there was a guide pin on the case under all that oil. Obviously there isn't one anymore. Found it broken off inside sitting on the cover. It was either causing the case not to sit flat or in the gearing. Seems fine now that it's right.

Do these things always leak around the four cap screws ?
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Buggin



Joined: 23 Jul 2007
Posts: 447

PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clean very well, don't make a mess when filling and use a very small amount of silicone to seal.
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Beatnik



Joined: 21 Jan 2012
Posts: 11

PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 12:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm remembering why I shelved this thing years ago. Came back to me when I replaced the diff's into thier housings and the holes for the screws were oversized and would not allow them to tighten properly. The battle of not enough of some hardware and too many of another.

Also mounting the engine was a problem. When set in the car with the clutch positioned correctly on the spur gear, the flywheel rubs the brake disk, the exhaust hits the upper arm mount and the motor mounts will not line up with the chassis because they hit the pull start housing. The adapter they included with the exhaust is not the right size for the pipe it came with. I guess it's time to start hacking this thing and just make it work.

How do you remove the flywheel with that tapered brass piece ?

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Buggin



Joined: 23 Jul 2007
Posts: 447

PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 2:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a puller, automotive wiper arm style works great and is cheap at any auto parts store.
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Beatnik



Joined: 21 Jan 2012
Posts: 11

PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Popped right off using a huge puller I had on hand, thanks !

Looks like the only way to make this work is to grind down the front shaft, lose the pull start and buy a back plate. Really wanted to keep the pull start and didn't want to invest in a starter box right now.
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Beatnik



Joined: 21 Jan 2012
Posts: 11

PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, I think I can keep the pull start if I go ahead and change out the upper rear arms to the narrow 40065 like I saw on the later models to make more room for the pipe. Still leave's no adjustment of the motor front to back, just have to get the clutch/flywheel shimmed to the right spot.
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Beatnik



Joined: 21 Jan 2012
Posts: 11

PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now the pipe and the sway bar hit, maybe I got the wrong combination of buggy and motor ? Wish I have a closeup shot of this area on an rtr with pull start.

And the things leaking diff oil everywhere.
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