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Just Finished ST Pro

 
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smeyers2



Joined: 16 May 2007
Posts: 36

PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 2:27 pm    Post subject: Just Finished ST Pro Reply with quote

Hi all... Taking my ST Pro on its Maiden Run tomorrow.

I'm not a racer yet... still practicing... probably will get the nerve to race next season. The track I use is big.. lots of jumps... table top, ripples, little jump off the hairpin onto the front straightaway.. big double on the back stretch with I double easily with my Hyper 8.5

I have 2 questions....

I assembled the front end using the measurements from the manual which state to adjust the adjustment rod on the upper A's so there is 7.5 mm between the inner and outer frames. The car is slightly towed out. Is the supposed to be towed in or out, and what is a good starting point, as far as degrees of toe (in or out)


Second question is the car seems too soft. I filled the shocks with the factory supplied 30 wt and am using the stock gray springs. There are no spacers in the front and the #4 spacers in the rear. I'm a converted Monster Truck basher and probably used to their stiff suspensions... but the ST Pro seems as if it will smack the track on the slightest jumps.

Any help would be mucho appreciated...
As Always, Have A Super Night And Weekend.
THANKS,
Steve
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Casketman



Joined: 23 Jul 2006
Posts: 495
Location: Braidwood,IL,USA

PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You want the front tires to have some toe out.
The rear should be toe in. Thats easier to adjust then the front.

Yes,you want some toe out in the front. 2-3 Deg I believe is the most you would need.
I dont know how many guys measure the steering link to set up their truck. Most just go by eye. Power up the system and from there,just work to get the front wheels as equal as you can on each side. Being a hair off isnt something that you nor many others should worry about and many dont. As long as one wheel isnt pointing way off to a side while the other is just a hair on the toe out side.

I never got to mess around with the shocks. I do remember being told that the 30wt is to thin for the truck. I want to say many others run 32-45 wt in their shocks. There is a mod as well to drill the shocks to help the oil flow better.
Do a seach on here to see what comes up. But keep in mind that many have moved over to the Jammin 16mm shocks so that might be an upgrade you want to keep at the top of your 'things to do or get' list.

Also remember that the chassis is going to slap the ground. It took some getting used to for me as well moving over after racing the Revo for 2 years. Now you dont want to bottom out over every jump but you shouldnt do it on the smaller ones. Yet the oil shouldnt be so thick that the truck jumps or bounces off every bump or crack on the track.
Hours of testing and tuning will give you a shock setup you feel good with.
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smeyers2



Joined: 16 May 2007
Posts: 36

PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Casketman...

You gave me some good info there. I got front toe out and rear toe in, so I'll leave well enought alone. I'll change the shock oil for now as I pretty well spent lots of $ on the Pro kit, a good steering servo, engine, and another Spektrum reciever. I'm thinking about either 35 or 40 weight, but I'll do a little more research on that.

Thanks for the help.

Have A Good One !!!

Steve
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triplebvalp



Joined: 11 Mar 2006
Posts: 333
Location: Valparaiso, FL

PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey smeyers2,

I run 35F/40R spacing the front level and the rear slightly above level. Diffs are 5f/7c/3r and I use the back holes on the ackerman.

The Hyper ST is "old technology" now but, is still a worthy racer and is built like a tank. Been racing mine for close to two years with zero broken parts.
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triplebvalp



Joined: 11 Mar 2006
Posts: 333
Location: Valparaiso, FL

PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey smeyers2,

I forgot one other important thing. The Hyper ST basically has no brakes "out of the box" ... to improve brake function:

Nitrohouse Brake Mod
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Casketman



Joined: 23 Jul 2006
Posts: 495
Location: Braidwood,IL,USA

PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only thing I would break on my truck was the front C hubs. I switched to Kyosho and the issues went away.

Keep in mind that this was over a year ago so things might of changed as for the stock hubs.
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smeyers2



Joined: 16 May 2007
Posts: 36

PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great Info Everyone... I Can't Thank You All Enough.

I'm especially interested in the brake mod as I did notice the servo tray flexing quite a bit. I was quite concerned about that. Glad you brought it up.

Today I put in 3 fast idleing "Heat Cycles", with heat gun in hand, at 10 minutes each. Tomorrow I will actually get to drive it !!!!



Thanks Again !!!

Steve
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Casketman



Joined: 23 Jul 2006
Posts: 495
Location: Braidwood,IL,USA

PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know its not a cheap upgrade but the BCE chassis makes use of the 8.5 radio tray which is better.

If money for that upgrade is not there,then the mod shown above is the next best thing.
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smeyers2



Joined: 16 May 2007
Posts: 36

PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 6:58 pm    Post subject: Question Re Bottoming Out.. A Thought (Imagine That !) Reply with quote

Does anyone install something like fuel tubing on the shock absorber shaft to limit the compression stroke of the shock. I used to have a smaller 2 wheel drive electric car, and we would do that to help stop the car from bottoming out. If you get the tubing the correct length the shock "bottoms out" just before the chassis strikes the ground. You car can still slap the ground on hard jumps, but the tubing makes it less violent.
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Casketman



Joined: 23 Jul 2006
Posts: 495
Location: Braidwood,IL,USA

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont see many people around here use that trick. I never thought about using it either. Threading the rod or ball end farther up on the shaft can help do the same thing. Most of my pistons stop about 1/8inch from the top so the nut at the top hardly touches the shock bladder.

Plus with the weight and abuse the shocks take. I dont think fuel tubing would last very long and seeing its a pain to get those ends on the shaft(at least for me). It would suck having to take them off and on again every so often to replace the tubing.
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