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pictures of my ultra lx truggy
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ultra nitro



Joined: 16 Jun 2009
Posts: 75
Location: United States of amerika

PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 4:48 pm    Post subject: pictures of my ultra lx truggy Reply with quote

check out my modded ultra lx truggy. i hope the link works.

Last edited by ultra nitro on Tue Sep 15, 2009 10:13 am; edited 7 times in total
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David S.



Joined: 04 Apr 2008
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 6:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks Sweet!
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ultra nitro



Joined: 16 Jun 2009
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks.
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DJ



Joined: 22 Jun 2006
Posts: 979

PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was owwwweand ahhhhing that, nice ride Im shure you have nothing but comments about it.
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ultra nitro



Joined: 16 Jun 2009
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Location: United States of amerika

PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the reply. i put alot of work into it to get it to this point. ill try to post more pictures of the drivetrain upgrades later tonight.
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MotionMachine999



Joined: 20 Oct 2005
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might want to resize that pic, then repost the pic like so [img]insert URL here[/img]

Looks alright for a rookie
J/K, post some more pics..
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team fugazee



Joined: 17 Jun 2009
Posts: 30
Location: nyc

PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey whats up ultra,just wanted 2 say thats the best looking lx ive seen,whats your secret?any parts or plans 4 sale?Any video? i was looking at the other monster lx on the site and i think yours is waaaaaaaaay better than the one with the red cage. great work!
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ultra nitro



Joined: 16 Jun 2009
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Location: United States of amerika

PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

here are some more pictures hopefully they will work. thanks for the input fugazee, motionmachine. currently i have no video of plans to sell parts. im just getting back into rc after a 15 year vacation. iv owned this car for six months and love it as you can see.http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/2303/dscn0676tnq.jpg im new at posting pictures give it a minute an it will pop up.
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MotionMachine999



Joined: 20 Oct 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really dig those wheels nitro, what are they from and do you have a part#???


team fugazee wrote:
hey whats up ultra,just wanted 2 say thats the best looking lx ive seen,whats your secret?any parts or plans 4 sale?Any video? i was looking at the other monster lx on the site and i think yours is waaaaaaaaay better than the one with the red cage. great work!


What other Monster LX with a red cage are you referring to?
I knoooowwwwwwww you aint referring to this one..


I could have, still could, easily cut and inserted some lexan body panels that would look nearly identical to nitro's, infact that was my original intent. However after further consideration, I wanted quick unrestricted access to the chassis, read no need to cut zip ties and/or remove the cage to perform any routine maint or quick repairs. At most, all I need to do now is pull 2 body clips and I can quickly and easily inspect, adjust, and R&R anything as if the cage wasn't there.


FYI, that not an LX, its an GTLX read "old school" truggy which was the pooh back in '99 when it was first built, no one could touch it then and many of the new kids on the block today still have trouble keeping up with it.
Now that the competition is finally making it worth my wild, Im currently building an "updated" MBX R-2 version, I only hope I dont have to wait another decade for the comp to catch up again.

Not that I want to compare Nitro's truggy to mine, I like his creative approach and I give him alot of credit for his effort. Apparently he went for the, for the lack of a better discription, the "custom rock crawler" look. I went for a "sleeper" factory look, meaning with my body in place, my truggy and its cage is practically indistinguishable from the rest of the pack. Only time I want folks to sit up and take notice of my truggy is when they are trying to chase me down

I am curious what material you (Nitro) used and how your cage is secured to the chassis. Also, how you went about modifying the stock buggy gearing.
Only thing I dont particularly like is the lower aluminum a-arms. Oh there purdy but trust me, you'll regret those after a few chart wheels and/or severe crashes and have to replace the busted diff housing a few times.
Been there and done that...

My rollcage is constructed of .25 OD X .034 wall 4130 Chrome Moly Tubing tig welded for maximum strength and minimum wieght. It fastens to the chassis at 8 secure points, 4 directly to the chassis plate, and 4 to the diff housings, virtually making it a tubed chassis eliminating any chassis flex while very effectively protecting everything within the confines of the cage, regardless of how wreckless I may become read I have no fear in launching it with wreckless abandonment.. Lord knows it has saved my cash many many MANY times...
My cage wieghs less than 15 ounces, with the 8 grade8 fasteners so it has no noticeable ill effects on COG or handling..

FWIW, many moons ago I designed, developed, tested, then manufactured and sold a complete chassis kit to transform the older Ultra buggy chassis's into a true truggy aka Monster Blazer GT.. IMO it makes for the perfect sleeper, to most people unfamiliar with the M Blazer or Ultra chassis, it looks factory stock so no one pays it much any mind until after the first heat race which often send the competition scrambling, whining to the tech inspectors and/or to the track officials..

If anyone is interested in truggyizing there Ultra based buggy and want to avoid all the trial and error or the hacked up apearance,, read this thread lx pro truggy conversion and if you have any more questions on the subject, feel free to drop me a PM.
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team fugazee



Joined: 17 Jun 2009
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

now i think i like the red one
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ultra nitro



Joined: 16 Jun 2009
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Location: United States of amerika

PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOW motionmachine your truggy looks nice. it looks real clean. when i designed mine i was unaware that someone else had modified a ultra lx chassis into a truck. looks cool. i built mine to keep up with my friends losi products. they run a MUGGY and a LST which are both excellent bashing trucks. the ultra lx buggy performed great but had trouble trying to keep on bumpy ground. that's why i built it to resemble a dessert racing truck or what i like to say a baja body. i feel if your going to go though the work to build a full metal jacket you might as well show it off. my cage is a little rough around the edges but i did not build it to be a trailer queen! i can access all the vital organs just fine by removing the body panels. i did some research and trial and error and came up with this design. I'm into more of the performance of the whole chassis than the stealthiness of it. that's why you notice my center of gravity is pretty low. it performs pretty well all around. i looked on your website and i was impressed by the strength of your cage amazing. i don't know how i feel about a center spool and a 65 tooth spur gear though. does your truggy get too light in the front under full power. i use a 51 tooth spur gear and a 12 tooth clutch bell, and i am on the verge of lifting the front wheels off the ground under full power.i hope you enjoy bashing your truggy around as much as i do.
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MotionMachine999



Joined: 20 Oct 2005
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Location: Land of Oz

PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Truth is, I often streak around naked myself. Unfortunitely, most tracks require you keep your cloths on.

Thanks for the kind words. Took me lotza money and several months of trial and error before I was satisfied with the end result you see there.
My first cage was a complete disaster, 2nd one wasn't much better, the welds (mig) were FUGLY. Sorry for the quality, this is the only pic I have of it.

That red cage was actually the first one to come off the production gigs.
Unlike today, I had zero MT wheel options that fit T-Maxx tires so I modified a set of my 14mm Wide Offset T-Maxx wheels to fit the 17mm hubs. People started requesting the 17mm's so I produced those too for a while.

So your still running the factory 51T spur gear? Not good. Gauranteed, it wont be long before your replacing/rebuilding the clutch, might wanna stock up on clutch springs, clutch shoes, and clutch bearings. Lets hope your 51T spur gear is steel, otherwise the CB may melt the plastic spur. Oh yea, the clutchbell will get hot enough to melt a plastic spur, just imagine whats happening to them composite clutch shoes.

With the 51T spur gear and 11T CB, I found the bottom end power and acelleration,,, ummm,, to say it SUCKED would be an understatement.
It bogged off the line, no way could it sling dirt. Without a running start, it couldn't climb over a speed bump much less rip up a steep incline (hill) and often got stuck if it fell in a rut.
Bottom line, I wanted EXPLOSIVE bottom end ie brutal POWER, the stuff that makes Monster Trucks so popular.

When I was running the 51/11 combo, my sluggy hauled cash on paved and smooth surfaces, once it got rolling and built up a good head of steam. However, I quickly discovered at them insane top end speeds (aprox 60+mph), control or should I say the lack of control became a major liability, specially on rutted up severely unlevel construction sites which more often than not, resulted in spectacular crash's, thus the need for the rollcage..
I should also mention it was burning up clutch's every 5-10 tanks of fuel, no bull.
After a couple months of that, I was determined to fix the disapointing bottom end performance and eliminate the clutch munching issue using the only significantly larger 1/8th scale 65T spur gear available at that time while following a few self imposed guidelines.
1. Don't compromise the chassis strength or integrety.
2. Keep mods and/or custom parts to a bare minimum (see #3).
3. Must be easily maintained and/or repaired with "readily available" parts.
4. Must maintain a clean, if not bone stock, factory appearance (see #5).
5. Relocate, move, or shift only whats absolutely necessary.

My truggy now sporting a 12T CB and 65T spur, originally modified to fit the stock center diff had explosive bottom end power, lightning quick acelleration and quickly top out around 45+ mph. It had no problem climbing up and over anything, virtually floated across rough terrain, but I still had one problem. The front tires constantly ballooned due to the CTR diff action, even with 50K wt diff lube.
After some searching, I found and modified a GTP solid center kit (spool) to adapt to a stock 65T spur gear and as they would say, the rest is history. During extensive track testing, I found the CTR diff set up was making consistant 30.5 second lap times, where as the spool shaved off a consistant 1.5 seconds from each lap. Doesn't sound like much but in a 5 minute heat race, that equates to nearly a half a lap. In a 30 minute main, thats 3 laps...
A spool, unlike a center diff, requires far more throttle control but puts equal power to both the front and rear diffs.
Thats where my ol' saying "Diffs are for riders, spools are for drivers" originated.
Yes, I can pull wheelies on demand which forced me to utilize the full range of the throttle. Yes, there are more throttle positions besides brake, WOT, and idle.

The larger 65T spur also allows for a much wider range of gearing options.
Its been my experience with Ultra truggies, anything less than and including a trans ratio of 4.63 resulted in sluggish "gutless" bottom end performance and requires frequent clutch maint.

With stock 51T spur gear.
51/11= 4.63.... A SB T-Maxx will likely eat your lunch off the line at this point...
51/12= 4.25
51/13= 3.92
51/14= 3.64
51/15= 3.40

With larger 65T spur gear.
65/11= 5.90.... Ideal GR for short, tight, highly tech tracks.
65/12= 5.41.... Ideal GR for medium length, semi tech tracks.
65/13= 5.00.....Ideal GR for long, less tech tracks, & bashing IMO.
65/14= 4.64.... Back to having a SB T-Maxx eat your lunch..
65/15= 4.33
65/16= 4.06

Basically, your looking for a final GR of aprox 16.0/1 or higher for best performance. Since changing the F/R diff GR is not practical, your limited to changing the spur gear...
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ultra nitro



Joined: 16 Jun 2009
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Location: United States of amerika

PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GOOD STUFF MOTION. my ride does show some of the symptoms your talk of in your previous post. when i set up the gearing of my truggy i was miss informed of the gear ratios of my front and rear diffs. i thought that the pinions had 11 teeth in them, thus giving a final gear ratio with the 12 tooth clutch bell of 17. i felt 17 would be great for bashing around. unaware of the gear ratio being 13.35 i did burn up the composite shoes fairly quickly. i switched to dynamite max life shoes and did some clutch tuning by installing heavier springs and got rid of some of the off the line slugishness. I'm also running an LRP Z28 spec3, and a JP3 pipe which helps in the power department significantly, thats why sb tmaxx's see my tailights more offten than not.. so far i have a little over a quart of fuel on the current clutch shoes and they seem to be holding up but i do have to clean them up after a couple of tanks.. you hit it dead on when you spoke about the truck running like a bat out of hell on smooth surfaces. it accelerates much quicker and the top speed is insane. its easier to control with the brake bias set to the rear at high speeds. i do approx 25% of my driving in the street. i enjoy high speed passes. off road ing the truck displays good manners but does suffer from front wheel spin under heavy acceleration do to the uneven surface. i'm currently running 50 k in the center diff and it helped a lot but I'm still getting some spin. id like to try the 11 tooth clutch bell you spoke of but i cant seem to find one. i own 1.5 acres of land and off road on about .75 acres of grass and dirt so I'm fine with sacrificing some low end grunt for a higher top speed. if you know of anywhere to get one id like to know or if i can obtain a steel 65 tooth center spur setup and keep my center diff. i don't want to change my radio tray and box if possible. with the 8 point cage installed and extra chassis braces i have installed my chassis flex is down to a bare minimum.
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MotionMachine999



Joined: 20 Oct 2005
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Location: Land of Oz

PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought my 11T CB years ago, not sure if they are still available though.

Yes, There is a stock 65T steel spur option available that bolts onto my modified spool (kit). I also have one modifed 65T steel spur left that bolts onto the Ultra's stock center diff ($50.00), but IMHO, its not necessary. Just check the lash often, I check mine after every race or after about every hour of bashing, might take 5 seconds really. Ive been running plastic 65T spurs for nearly 10 years, and after literally 40+ gallons of fuel, I can count on both hands and still have a couple fingers left as to how many times Ive replaced a spur gear. Of those times, it was most often due to FOD or a clutch bearing failure..
I believe I also have a couple CNC modified 65T plastic spur gears left that fit the stock center diff.

To install the 65T spur (be it steel or plastic) on the stock center diff.
1. Youl'll need to raise the tranny aprox .325" off the chassis.
2. You'll need to fabricate a new trans top plate to clear the larger spur gear.
3. With a center diff, you must rearrange the brake linkage to retain the F/R brake bias.
4. You may or may not need to change the radio/servo plate on the LX-1. I haven't bothered to buy one to check it out. Just depends on how much clearance (if any) you have once the larger spur is in place. I suggest maintaining at least 1mm clearance. Because you have a cage that reinforces the chassis, you might get away with modifying (cut, grind, file) the stock plate.
I can help with most, if not all of these items.
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ultra nitro



Joined: 16 Jun 2009
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

LETS MAKE A DEAL. i would like your opinion on keeping the center diff. i'm currently running 50k in the center diff and i am still getting some wheel spin when accelerating off road. i want to get the most traction i can without popping wheelies all the time. i was going to install 100k in the center diff to see if it will remedy the tire spin issues yet still be able to bleed off some power if the front becomes airborne. also i will be able to retain some of my brake bias. what i was thinking of running is your 65 tooth spur gear,my center diff, 100k, your diff top plate , diff riser hardware, and a 13 vented ofna bell. i don't know how the 100k will perform at this task. do you have any experience with this setup? can you suggest a package deal it get some more performance out of my truggy?
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