 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| Author |
Message |
Cyanotic

Joined: 22 Feb 2007 Posts: 6 Location: Chattanooga, Tennessee
|
Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:19 pm Post subject: Front Tire Spin |
|
|
I've got a Mutilator with a 32 and Jammin JP2 pipe and I'm getting a lot of front tire spin. The tires grow to about double diameter during hard acceleration, this happens only on the front. Still got the factory grease in the diffs, I've read about the different oils to use and was wondering if there is a solution to this in useing different weight oils in the diffs.
How can I make the front end not spin out of control like this.
EDIT: Just purchased the PBS upgrade, soon as it gets here it's on. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| Author |
Message |
Paradoxmaker

Joined: 13 Mar 2006 Posts: 3573 Location: Keller, Texas
|
Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 8:47 pm Post subject: Re: Front Tire Spin |
|
|
| Cyanotic wrote: |
I've got a Mutilator with a 32 and Jammin JP2 pipe and I'm getting a lot of front tire spin. The tires grow to about double diameter during hard acceleration, this happens only on the front. Still got the factory grease in the diffs, I've read about the different oils to use and was wondering if there is a solution to this in using different weight oils in the diffs.
How can I make the front end not spin out of control like this.
EDIT: Just purchased the PBS upgrade, soon as it gets here it's on. |
Adding cleaning out the grease and oils to the diffs is the solution.
Since your having excessive front tire ballooning you want to thicken up the center (on a truggy you probably want to start with 10000 weight).
The oil weight in the center diff controls how much power is split between the front and rear tires. Front ballooning is caused by hard acceleration lifting the front end, once the front lifts it has less resistance with the ground. With less grip on the ground the wheels get more and more power sent to them ballooning out the tires. The thicker the oil in the center diff the more power is shifted to the rear tires evening out the power. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| Author |
Message |
Cyanotic

Joined: 22 Feb 2007 Posts: 6 Location: Chattanooga, Tennessee
|
Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:20 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks for the response and advise. I gotta admit, I'm not exactly new to RC, just to cars and trucks, but some of the finer points elude me. Like tuneing diffs, suspension, and the other witchcraft that goes with it.
You mentioned 10k in the center, should I use like 7k and 5k in the front and rear? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| Author |
Message |
Wookiee528

Joined: 25 Oct 2005 Posts: 2569 Location: Monrovia, CA
|
Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 11:25 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| That should work blueman. There are a lot of variations you could try. in my Mugen Truggy I run 7,10,3, but when I ran a CRT, I used 10, 20, 5. It all comes down to your driving style and surface conditions. 7,10, 5 will be a good starting point, and they you can make changes to suit your conditions. Good Luck. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |