Submission for the links page are reviewed on a case-by-case basis, with no particular criteria for approval, apart from we are not listing ANY hobbyshops or retailers at this time.
If you have a site that benefits R/C racers in some way, and does not directly oppose OFNA's marketing efforts or is incongruous with OFNA's interests, and you are willing to provide a link to OFNA, then we will consider providing reciprocal links.
You will be notified whether your site is accepted or declined.

Yes, we admin the message board for monkey business. The messageboard is provided to facilitate the Nitro R/C community by bringing R/C racers together in a forum where they can exchange ideas, hot tips and information.
The messageboard is not intended for customer support or service, nor for warrantly or setup issues. We do check it and help out when we can, but we cannot answer every question that appears on the messageboard.
If you cannot find an answer to your question in this FAQ, and you cannot find the help you need on the messageboard, please don't hesitate to call OFNA technical support at 949-586-2910.

1/8th scale off-road single speed average 30-40 MPH. 2-Speed averages 40-50 MPH. Trucks average 25-35 MPH. Speed variable depending upon environmental conditions, motor size, tuning, gearing, clutch bell size, etc.. OFNA offers many sizes.

No. Although for preventative measures it is a good idea to Loctite any metal-to-metal screws. The extreme vibration produced by the high RPM's of nitro motors increase the chances of a screw backing out. Better safe than sorry.

Yes, there is some minor assembly required. For example: body mounting, decal application, install batteries, apply oil to air filter foam, etc..

No. The Nitro-based hobby in general requires a fairly high degree of maintenance to the vehicle.

After the motor break-in process is complete, once you have ran an additional 2 tanks, you will need to check the following items:

* Receiver Battery
* Radio Battery
* Glow Plug
* Loctite/tighten any loose nuts, screws or bolts. ie: set screws, engine mount screws, wheel nuts, etc
* Clutch-bell and Spur Gear mesh
* Pullstart engine screws
* Nylon ties for exhaust
* Look for bent arm pins & dog bones - replace if bent
* Examine shocks for oil leaks - replace/rebuild as necessary
* Clean & Re-Oil or replace Foam Air Filter element
* Ensure all servo & throttle linkage is straight & in proper alignment
* Watch for bent wheels and axles - replace as necessary
* Ensure fuel system is free of obstruction, line pinches, dirt & leaks
* Clean entire car after every tank - watch for sand, rocks, mud, debris or anything that will hinder proper operation and maintenance

The above maintenance should be observed ideally after every run.

Yes. Visit the OFNA manuals section to find downloadable / printable PDF manuals for your vehicle.

Standard longs. No idle bar. One washer only. Standard medium temperature.

Pull-starts usually break when the motor is flooded. The fuel in the cylinder will not compress. Also, pull-starts should never be pulled to its full extension/length. Limit the pull-throw to 6 to 10 inches, and no further, otherwise you put excessive stress on the parts involved and risk premature failure.

10,000 in the front, 5,000 in the center, 3,000 in the rear. Fill it 3/4 full.

No. They are made by 2 different factories.

No.

Byron's Premium Race Fuel.

Cold temperatures make all plastic and nylon parts more brittle. If you wish to run your vehicle in cold weather (below 45 degrees F), you may experience parts breaking more frequently.
One cold weather tip to help limit breakage and increase the durability of nylon parts (chassis, suspension arms, bulkheads, etc.) is to disassemble the vehicle and boil only the nylon parts for 2 hours. This will cause the nylon parts to be more flexible than usual. Please wait for the nylon parts to cool completely before reassembly. This will not solve all problems in cold weather running.

This is not a good idea. Water will foul your electronics if not properly wrapped, and will rust some of the metals. Water in your intake will destroy your motor.

Sand is one of the most abrasive things that can get into your R/C vehicles. Offroad vehicles can be run on sand if you take extra care in preparing/cleaning the vehicle. First, clean the vehicle entirely before you run on sand. We recommend denatured alcohol in a squirt bottle, a rag, and a toothbrush. Partially disassemble the vehicle. Remove the gearbox, engine, and suspension. Re-lube any lubricated parts after cleaning with the alcohol, such as bushings, bearings, and gears. Apply lubricant only in the areas that need it, as excess oil will attract dirt, dust and sand.

IMPORTANT: To prevent damage to the engine, ensure the air filter is clean, and will not pass any dust or sand particles into the engine. If the filter is old or you are unsure about it's condition, replace it. After running in sand, shake the vehicle to dislodge any sand that has collected and clean well before running the vehicle again. Sand is one of the worst surfaces that you can run on, but if you observe the proper precautions it will not harm your vehicle. Keep in mind, some parts will wear out faster than normal.

When charging NiMH battery packs, assuming you are using the correct charger it can take a few charge and discharge cycles before the battery packs will hold their full rated charge. You should find that the NiMH battery packs will increase in capacity as they are run through several cycles.

If, after several charge/discharge cycles, the packs still don't form up and hold their full capacity, you may have bad packs, and they should be sent to us for analysis and possible replacement.

All rechargable batteries are shipped in a discharged state for safety concerns. Charge your batteries completely as indicated by the instructions prior to installing in your model.

If the engine runs fine, but the car won't go anywhere, chances are the problem is something has come loose in the drive train.

Begin with the rear wheels and ensure the nuts that affix them to the axles are secure. If the nuts are loose, the axle will spin inside the wheels. Next, move inward along the drive shafts to the differential case. If there are universal joints at the differential case, they are attached with small set screws. The set screws hold the drive joint onto the small stub shafts that protrude from the case. If they have loosened, the stub shaft will spin, but the drive joint will not. Align the drive joint so that the set screw will tighten onto the flat portion of the shaft. This may require some disassembly of the suspension to get access.

Lastly, inspect the main gear, and ensure the gear is tight on its shaft. When a slipper clutch is slightly loose, the main gear will turn, although power will not be transferred to the gearbox. You can readily see this when the engine is operating. The gear will turn, but the shaft will not.

These suggestions should help you to spot the problem. Particularly with gas-powered model cars, the engine's vibration tends to loosen every nut, bolt, and screw in the model. As a result, there is about one-half to 1 hour's worth of maintenance required for every 4 hours of running time to keep your vehicle in top running shape.

Unopened fuel which is stored out of direct sunlight is fine for years. Although, we recommend you use up your fuel annually, particularly if exposed to sunlight.

Once fuel has been opened, it has been exposed to air which includes moisture. Both water and sunlight are your fuel's enemy, so the more frequently or the longer it is exposed the more rapidly it will deteriorate. As a rule of thumb, we recommend you use all open containers of fuel in a single modeling season then properly discard any remaining fuel.

You can call OFNA tech support, or send an email to support@OFNA.com, or you can try posting your issue to the OFNA Message Board. There you will find many of other nitro racers ready and willing to provide their tips & tricks. Post a question and watch what happens.